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 The How To 16V Water Pump Conversion On 20V EngineFirst  < 8 9 10 11 12 >  Last
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loudog
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58 posts [100%]
grass valley ca

  » Reply  Edit


First post here guys. Im getting started on a 20v swap into a 63 Austin Healey. Never would've started on it had it not been for a run across all your threads, you guys are awesome.

Thank you all for the wealth of information, and although it may not be a corolla, it'll be a Toyo at heart. Is that enough to be accepted here? .

My main reason for joining is to get the 4age as far back as possible, EDIS and water block off, putting the center of gravity in a better spot.

Lots of modification, many q's will pop up I'm sure. Sam, I will be purchasing your products come that time, as your products are proven solid and are at least half the price of other parts/kits out there. Thanks again to all




If it doesn't work the first time you build it, build it again, its how we doo doo
Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: (loudog) » Reply  Edit


if it has a 4age then your welcome here! I have supplied a 20v kit for someone with what I think was an austin before, he was in the UK, also someone in France putting a 20v in a fiat! me personally I love it.

So do yu have a picture of your engine bay?

When you have your questions post, I have been a bit behind me emails/forum posts as of late hence the long delay. Also it;s probably not much of a help but I am happy to countersink the holes on any of the bypass plates I have to loose that extra 10mm of room. At a total of 25mm of thickness nothing else comes close.



My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

 Re: (Sam_Q) » Reply  Edit


Sam_Q for your rear bypass housing is it possible to fit the 16v dash temp sensor, 20v ecu temp sensor and the 20v fan switch along the top when I order it? With enough space for socket wrench to slip on (duh, lol)?

Thanks just working on my wiring at the moment finalizing where things should go.

**I mean adding holes and tapping threads, thanks.

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: (rc.square24) » Reply  Edit


well I usually would just fit it in the side of the unit if someone wanted something extra. Or I could just put it into the side block off plate next to the exhaust flange.

Anyway post here if you like:

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=83506



My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

  » Reply  Edit


If I plug up the bypass hole on the pump can I just drill enough holes on the thermostat with total area about the same as the 16v bypass pipe? Or is that different than running a bypass line?

Thanks

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: (rc.square24) » Reply  Edit


well you really don't need that much. Even a pair of 3mm (1/8") holes is enough



My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

redking
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323 posts [100%]
Manila

  » Reply  Edit


what are the other advantages of this set-up over the relocation kit aside from the costs?



My wallet is like an Onion. When I open it, It makes me wanna cry.
Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: (redking) » Reply  Edit


No ugly water pipes from the back of the engine that get in the way and allow more places to leak from.

Easier to service with the thermostat readily accessible.

Looks like a factory fitment.

Lots of room between your cooling gear and the firewall/bulkhead.

Really easy to bolt on pending which kit your using.

Easy to hook up the heater using the original hoses or turbo coolant lines for that matter.





My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

  » Reply  Edit


Thanks Sam_Q

Oh does anyone know if a 4AC SR5 AE86 dash water temp sensor is the same as a 16v one? As in readings and sensor thread size.

Thanks

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: (rc.square24) » Reply  Edit


yes it's the same



My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

redking
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323 posts [100%]
Manila

  » Reply  Edit


is there a need to change to 16v crank, water-pump, alternator pulleys for this set up?



My wallet is like an Onion. When I open it, It makes me wanna cry.
Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: (redking) » Reply  Edit


no not at all, so long as you match the pulley to the water pump: ie- front wheel drive pulley to 20V pump and so on.



My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

20v silvertop
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28 posts [100%]
longisland ny

 Re: The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (mr john) » Reply  Edit


whats up man i'm doing a silvertop 20v swap in a 94 corolla ..do you know if a blacktop igniter would fit a silvertop without any mods or anything?

also another thing i aint getting any spark to my spark plug wires..do you think cause i dont have the igniter connected thats the reason its not getting any spark?

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (20v silvertop) » Reply  Edit


check the part numbers between the models on toyodiy.com

without your ignitor you will have nothing



My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

redking
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323 posts [100%]
Manila

 Re: The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (Sam_Q) » Reply  Edit


so your kit is all that I'll be needing? no need for swapping-out of parts?

you got email also good man.

Modified by redking at 5:27 AM 11/7/2011



My wallet is like an Onion. When I open it, It makes me wanna cry.
morgan
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6446 posts [93%]
just be glad your not here, nj

 Re: The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (20v silvertop) » Reply  Edit


the BT and ST ignitors are the same thing.



haha cali...i got one of you 86's, and your not getting it back.
my 20v in an 86 swap guide
my mess of an 86...
*east coast toyotas forum*
A fool takes no pleasure in understanding, but only in expressing his opinion.
20v silvertop
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28 posts [100%]
longisland ny

 Re: The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (morgan) » Reply  Edit


So if i run the Silvertop with a ST ignitor and a ST ECU...will i need the AFM ? or do i need a BT ECU so i could run it with ITBs?
morgan
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6446 posts [93%]
just be glad your not here, nj

 Re: The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (20v silvertop) » Reply  Edit


they both have ITBs, sounds like you want to run "open stacks"? you need a BT ecu for that. ST is AFM based, while the BT is MAP based and lets you run open stacks because there is no AFM, just a MAP sensor ran off the main vacuum rail. the ignitor/coil is the same for both.

where in LI are you located? im out near riverhead every now and again, i have family out there.

PM me if you need help.



haha cali...i got one of you 86's, and your not getting it back.
my 20v in an 86 swap guide
my mess of an 86...
*east coast toyotas forum*
A fool takes no pleasure in understanding, but only in expressing his opinion.
20v silvertop
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28 posts [100%]
longisland ny

 Re: The How To 16V Waterpump Conversion On 20V Engine (morgan) » Reply  Edit


I'm not familiar with the term "open stacks". I want to put individual filters on the throttle bodies, is this what your referring to? And if so, would I need a MAP sensor too? I live in bay shore.

Here's the almost finished project:

Thanks.

rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

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Yes open stacks mean running the itbs without the single air box, with velocity stacks or individual filters over.

You will need the MAP sensor and Intake air temp sensor on a blacktop ecu with silvertop or blacktop harness. you have to wire in the map and IAT sensors to the ST harness.

I think this conversation from now on should be brought back to your other thread you started, i'll post a link on a writeup from morgan its pretty much on running ST motor with BT electrics.

20v silvertop
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longisland ny

 Re: (rc.square24) » Reply  Edit


Alright that's not too hard..If i do this will it increase in hp and torque? if so, about how much will it increase?
morgan
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6446 posts [93%]
just be glad your not here, nj

 Re: (20v silvertop) » Reply  Edit


more for the sound of the ITBs than anything else, but the BT was rated at a few more HP than the ST so you might get a little.

this thread is getting a bit off topic now, from the 16v water pump conversion on the 20v engine discussion that was started. feel free to PM me with wiring Q's, or start a new tech thread about the Q's you have.

heres the thread rc.square was talking about...
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=96514



haha cali...i got one of you 86's, and your not getting it back.
my 20v in an 86 swap guide
my mess of an 86...
*east coast toyotas forum*
A fool takes no pleasure in understanding, but only in expressing his opinion.
rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

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Sam_Q I was reading your article on rwd cooling conversion, you mentioned not to use single stage tstat in a rwd front/rear pump unless the bypass is plugged up.

What does the 16v and 20v come with? Whats the difference between single and dual? I tried googling but got a lot of home hvac hits.

I'll be using rwd front/rear pump halves with bypass hole plugged and 1/8" holes drilled in the 20v tstat, will this be fine? **Ok re-read some posts and got my answer should be ok**

Also I noticed you and RS-Chita offer a spacer for tilting the motor forwards on the tranny, is this absolutely necessary with an 1" thick bypass for keeping heat and clearance?

Thanks!<br /><br />
Modified by rc.square24 at 2:49 AM 11/12/2011

Modified by rc.square24 at 2:52 AM 11/12/2011

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

 Re: (rc.square24) » Reply  Edit


single stage thermostats just open up the main body when up to temperature. Dual stage does the same but has a flap on the end that closes off a smaller port when the main part opens. What this does is let a bypass of water from the top to bottom radiator hose until it gets up to temperature.

The reason I say not to fint a non bypass thermostat into a bypass housing is because the bypass pipe will always be open. This means at all times a 5/8"s hose worth of water will always be bypassing the radiator. Now I don't know how much of a difference this will make but regardless it's a waste of cooling.

If you plug the bypass pipe/hole then that's all irrelevant, the twin 1/8" holes you have seem to be the common concensus on what's right.

The gearbox spacer isn't for the bypass plate on the back of the head because as you have guessed unless you are using a big block like the T3 or SS-works kit then there's lots of room. The spacer is for the cover that goes over the dizzy base to the heater hoses. With the caps I used to sell and without the spacer the hoses used to lightly rub against the cap. The spacer let this clear by a marginal amount. My new in-house made low profile caps are much shorter again so it isn't as critical anymore. Hence why the spacer is only included with my heater option kit.

Also some people including the 16V guys can run them for extra space. I have had a few people with right hand drive cars use them for clearence off the brake booster for the 4th velocity stack




My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

 Re: (Sam_Q) » Reply  Edit


Thanks for the explanation on the bypass and 2-stage tstats.

As for the spacer that would make sense now as I originally thought it was for more clearance running heater lines behind the rear bypass. But I think the dizzy cap rubbing heater line clearance issue is more for right hand drive cars (and RHD brake booster line clearance) since they have the heater core outlets positioned further over the left hand side of the firewall, whereas LHD cars have the core closer to the right side, out of the dizzy caps way.

Anyways thanks for clearing those questions up!

Google images

RHD

LHD

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

  » Reply  Edit


wow, this is going to sound really unproffesional but this whole time I thought they used the same position. This means I might delete the spacer out of the kits for anyone who has a LHD car. I need to look if the dizzy cover goes close to the left one at all, which doesn't seem likely.



My website - conversion parts, articles, services...

s-86.com

-20v RWD conversion parts for sale

rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

 Re: (Sam_Q) » Reply  Edit


The dizzy cap shouldn't be in the way of heater lines, as the in/outlets are a bit over the right of the firewall centreline for LHD.

The rear bypass plate heater barb was what I thought the spacer was meant for as on the LHD cars the barb seems to be coming out close to or in front of the heater core return outlet that points downwards, or even the whole bypass plate being in front of the two core lines. But someone should have mentioned something if the plate is too close to the core lines on LHD without the spacer installed.

20v silvertop
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28 posts [100%]
longisland ny

 Re: (morgan) » Reply  Edit


Just did my engine swap. Tried to start the car, but Im not getting any spark. To my knowledge...to get a spark you need a battery, ignitor, coil, computer and ignition. Am I missing something?
20v silvertop
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28 posts [100%]
longisland ny

 Re: (20v silvertop) » Reply  Edit


if my computer was messed up would i get any power to the igniter, coil and ignition? cause i'm getting power to them but i just aint getting no spark. what do you think it could be?
rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

 RWD pump assembly & Blacktop Idler Pulley » Reply  Edit


edit: ok went over this thread again and someone mentioned the problem before. Sam maybe you can add this to your article, just a suggestion

While helping my friend convert his blacktop to a RWD cooling system we have a problem where the idler pulley/bearing would hit the reinforcing ridge on the RWD pump, thus not allowing enough slack to install the timing belt.

Heres the parts used.

BT 20v
BT timing belt 110T
18T crank pulley (ie stock)
BT idler bearing and hydraulic tensioner
RWD water pump front and back for 4AG AE86, front is new Aisin type with logo ground off.

I don't recall reading about this problem when doing research for my own swap (ST 20v), although it has a different tensioning system.

With the timing belt off the pump assembly bolts in fine after grinding a bit of material off the block (which I've read might be needed for some blocks)

With the belt on and / or tensioner released theres not enough room for the pump bolts to line up with the holes, as the bearing is stuck against the pump rib.

We tried the original blacktop water pump front & back half and everything bolted up fine as it should. I compared the two and it was the rib/guard casting that is sticking out more on the RWD pump, if I were to grind it down I think it needs at least 5mm+ of material taken off. Again we just want to check with you guys since it's quite a bit to grind off and I never heard anyone mentioning this.

Must be due to the different tensioning system used than on the 16v/ST.

Any others experience this?

Thanks!

Pictures showing the belt but it's not on at the top cam gear because lack of slack.





Modified by rc.square24 at 2:19 AM 2/7/2012

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