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 The How To 16V Water Pump Conversion On 20V EngineFirst  < 8 9 10 11 12   Last
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Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

  » Reply  Edit


that's a new one to me, it looks like you have no choice but to grind down that section of ribbing on the water pump. Or alternatively you can run a 16V/7afe/silvertop oil pump and tensioner and use a silvertop timing belt.



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rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

 Re: (Sam_Q) » Reply  Edit


So the difference in timing belt length is from the tensioning system and not the dimensions between the crank/cams right?

And it is ok to omit the spring and its stud for the idler bearing if it was to be converted?

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

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yes that's correct, just that annoying tensioner that causes the belt change. Not sure what you mean about your second point though. Easiest way to convert is to just swap your whole oil pump, however your sump has to come off for that so not so easy.



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rc.square24
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326 posts [100%]
Vancouver BC

 Re: (Sam_Q) » Reply  Edit


What I mean: you know that spring that hooks the 16v tensioner to a stud on the block? The blacktop doesn't have that stud/pin thing. Anyways I don't see a problem without it.

We ground the rib down by ~5mm deep and everything went together smoothly.

Sam_Q
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579 posts [99%]
Australia vic

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I see what you mean now. If you where confident on adjusting the belt tension then yes it would work fine.



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ayee420
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2108 posts [100%]
san bruno ca

 Re: (rc.square24) » Reply  Edit


I had to do the same on my waterpump since the 20v BT waterpump is not easy to get here in the US so i had to use FWD waterpump and grid off the rib to clear the idler pulley.





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