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 MY 1987 SR5 DD buildFirst  < 2 3   Last
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BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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I am once again having trouble with the vaccum set up. my car still idles too high, and to make it worse, BOTH the california and fedral diagrams aren't right for my car. I have to much stuff for fedral, and too few for california. pictures are easier.


BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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Stock idle for my car is supposed to be 800 rpm, yet it prefers 1000. I have checked for leaks, and there are none. All new vacuum hosing. Vacuum hosing is in its correct locations. i have played with the idle screw, yet 1000 is the lowest it will go. I have cleaned out the carburetor. I have correct ignition timing. I am quite lost lol.

I tried to set the throttle positioner, in hopes that would fix it. I turned the TP screw till i had 1400rpms, and reconnected the hoses, but the car never idled down. Something related there? One though i had was turning in the main idle screw all the way in, start the car, and then turn it out slowly in hopes that it will be at the right idle, sort of like resetting itself. Any other thoughts? I would hate to have to give up and have a shop to the adjustments, but it just wont go down, and this is the last thing preventing me from getting smogged(and to set a few other things.)


Another thought, is the fast idle screw supposed to be screwed all the way in, just though about it because i noticed it.

BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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did a little experimenting today. sprayed carbs cleaner, and nothing. I noticed if i start by car up cold, it idles very low and rough, so i usually hold my foot down for while for it to warm up. i checked my manual, and i noticed i didnt set the fast idle. i do the routine, but when plugging the lines back up, the idle didn't go down. stayed right and true at 3000. Something tells me this is leading to my problem of having a slightly too high of an idle.
BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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update 9/10/12

Took it in to see how well it would do with smog. Nope. Not even. Missing parts, bad emisson numbers, and the car is runing very rich. It need a full carburetor rebuild, and the catalytic converter on it just doesnt do the job. The catalytic converter also isnt a calfiornia carb, i figure it is a high flow cat from out of state. A few emisson house were missing, I never got them wiht the car.

however


This also means i did nothing wrong with the engine build, and i got the vacuum diagram done right. MY idea is to head to the salvage yard and pic up the hoses i need, another carburetor and rebuild kit, and try to pick up a new cat converter.

It just wont be cheap though.

BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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The carberator on my car never had is fast idle adjusted. my stock carberator is also in a bad state of repair. However, i came up on a rebuilt carb and picked it up. I know the carb is supposed to fast idle around 3000rpms(mine was around 3500), however, its made me pretty nervous. How long does it do this fast idle for? And why does the car have such a high fast idle function? I am going to guess and say the fast idle function is for warming up the car, and probably emissions too. Can anyone give me some information about the fast idle system, so i don't have a heart attack for no reason?
BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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Actually did some work today. First i tried the car with the working TVSV, car still wet and high idled, and kept climbing. Shut off the car, backed off the idle screw, and it went even higher, now over 4000 rpms. backed off the idle screw, and the car wouldn't even start! pulled off the air filter, and sure enough, the carb was flooded.

Looks like I am going to learn how to rebuild a carb. I have two, so at least i can maybe do what i did with my engine, take them both apart and make 1 good one. My guess is that this carb runs way to rich.

pretty defeated now

BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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Update 12/6/2012


It has been a while since a real update. School really got me busy. Anyways, after failing smog spectacularly, I got the carb rebuilt, and bought a replacement cat. However, One of the studs stripped on the intake mainfold, and it even stripped out the hexicoil i put in it. I went to the junkyard and got another mainfold, needs some work though to fit the heater element on it. Almost a year since I have had this car, and I think I have driven it maybe a mile! Anyways, I have all the parts and tools, just need the time to get the rebuilt carb and the new intake manifold on the car, the new cat welded in, then smoged and registered. Then the car will sit again till i get new bearings, tires, and insurance. I also painted the hood white.

i need either tires of wheels bad


I have the grille in the trunk, wiht it off the bumper makes a decent tool box bench


I also figured out a way to restore and refresh my black trim parts, more on that later.


touge_g35




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1779 posts [98%]
lancaster ca

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Looking good man



My wolfpack
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=101082


My website, click on this link for my motor sports photography samples.
http://www.likhoun.com

BlackStar87
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257 posts [100%]
Sun city CA

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12-15-12

Did a small how to today,

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=113673

And also took the front half of the car apart to re-line up the body panels. Much improvement. However, the passenger side headlight still makes contact when it flips up. I attributed this to the accident the car was in before I bought it. The place where it mounts is pressed in. I'll work around it.

I would like to get the car done before christmas, its been almost one year since I have owned the car,

SuperWakos
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87 posts [100%]
San Diego CA

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A nice addition to your High MPG endeavors would be the M Factory 5th gear. Playing w/ rear tire sizing helps a ton too because it enables you to keep your freeway revs lower. I commute from San Diego to Vista everyday & have noticed a few things about getting better mpg. My GT-S w/ T3 4.7 final drive was getting about 20mpg which is about the same as my E36 M3. So I decided to change final drive back to stock w/ a local 4AG member. While I was doing that exchange I started daily driving my M3. I blew a tire & ended up running new rears. I went from 215/40-17 to 215/45-17. Obviously the bigger rear tire option brought my freeway revs down. I think they dropped around 900rpm. That really got me stoked so then I decided to take it a step further. I turned down my coilovers to the lowest possible setting(still sorting out ideal damper adj though) & ran it as close as safe to the ground. I'm now getting a solid 36mpg on my commute which is 92 miles & some change. miles round trip. I also need to add the fact that I have been using Mobil 1 0w-40 for the last few years on my M3. I use Castrol 10w-40 on my GT-S.I installed the new stock GT-S rear end & I'm searching the yards for a lower engine cover to help reduce drag & turbulence. I'll soon be switching diff oils to something thinner in both cars to see if I can get better numbers. I plan on running throwing my old TRD 0.6 h/g on to bring up compression & then retard the timing a bit to help with the mpgs as well. All on 91 octane of course. Alright man, well that's my 2 cents & mpg story. Good luck & happy motoring J Style
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