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 KP 61 sleeper build.First  1 2 3 >  Last
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stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

 KP 61 sleeper build. Picture Heavy! Reply  Edit


Hi I am new here and have not posted this over here yet. The project grew from a restore into a restore with more horse power than is reasonable and Many rally/high speed suspension components. Performance Options in Oakland Ca is doing the drive train swap and I will do the interior and audio. This will be as nice as any new car inside when I am done if I get it right.

So here is the starting car, got it for $750




The engine compartment

These are the parts I have so far.

-Engine- JDM 4A-GZE

-Overdrive pulley for the super charger, with belt- Largest size drive pulley you can get. Purchased from Technotoytuning.

-Transmission- T50 - the corolla GTS and SR5 are the T50 so both work with the GTS bell housing. http://www.woodfins.com/

- Hydraulic Clutch- Slave cylinder and resevor are from a Honda Prelude

-Bellhousing- T50 corolla GTS bell housing from Technotoytuning. It is a salvage unit from a corolla GTS.

-starter plate- corolla GTS

-Short shifter kit, 50% throw reduction- from Technotoytuning

-Clutch- Any search for a 87 corolla GTS will find the clutch you want for this swap
Exedy stage 1 modle number 16804B
Exedy stage 2 model number 16954B

-Flywheel- Any search for a 87 corolla GTS will find the flywheel you want for this swap
Cusco 83-87
fidanza corolla gts 8 LB (google to find best price) http://www.fidanza.com/

-Suspension- Coil over struts, shocks, role center adjusters and camber plates, and steering knuckles- purchased from technotoytuning ( http://www.technotoytuning.com ) The struts/shocks are modified AE86 Corolla GTS units. To install them you need adaptor parts from Technotoytuning which is why I got everything from them as a set.

-Front Strut bar- purchased from technotoytuning

-AE86 complete front brakes- purchased from technotoytuning with the AE86 front strut/coilover setup. They are salvaged brakes from a corolla GTS and required for swaping to the GTS front struts. For the brakes you will need a set of GTS brake lines. Google will find the best deal on the lines.

-Front sway bar system- Adjustable lower control arms, Adjustable TC rods, adjustable tension sway bar. This kit requires all the suspension components above to be installed. (purchased from technotoytuning)

-4A-G engine mounts- purchased from technotoytuning, and a set of corolla GTS engine mounts. (google the gts mounts for source)

-Radiator- koyorad aluminum radiator for 84-87 corolla GTS, There are other all aluminum units available at half the price, but this was the one recommended by two different shops.http://www.koyorad.com/

-Water to air intercooler system. Any search for this item will locate them but you will need to make it fit so measure and order at your own risk. Get a Bosch upgrade pump as well. Here are the dimensions of the one I ordered.
Heat Exchanger:
- Overall size:31.5x9.5x3.5(end-tank) inch
- Core Size:24x8x2.5 inch
- Inlet and outlet sizes:3/4 (0.75) inch
- Rows:2
- Pressure Released Cap:1.1 Bar(16Lbs)
Liquid Water to Air Intercooler:
- Overall Size:12"x12.5"x4.5"
- Core Size:10"x5"x4.5"
- Inlet + Outlet:3"
- Water feeding:0.75"
The water circulation pump is a bosch cobra magnatic drive.Purchased from lingenfelter online. http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm...high=

-Rearend- AE86 corolla GTS with rebuilt TRD LSD(not SR5) with GTS brake lines for the new disk brakes. Other axles work like the Cellica and the RX7 but require shortening. They are heavy as well.


I will need other minor parts like custom drive shaft, exhaust and fuel pumps but the big ticket items are listed and I will add the smaller ones as I find out what they are.



stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Now for some interior work. Getting started on the dynamatting and padding. I will be waiting to fully finish the interior once the new engine and tranny are in place so I get the shifter in the right place.




This is the padding and it is very nice stuff.



A test drive after and on a gravel road you cant even here the crunching under the tires. I still have enough to do the doors and some areas up front. The carpeting has the silent padding already installed.

So less than 30 lbs of dynamatting and it is silent.

Now since the interior is all flat paneling it is easy to reproduce with 1/8" masonite. It is what the factory uses.
Lay out the pieces to be copied. Mark and cut them out, then fit into place.



This will all attach with velcro for rapid removal at the races.:devious:

Need to trim and fit this side still

stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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So now for the trunk bottom and since the old one was totally discinigrated so I have to make a new one from scratch. So out with the old scribing skills. Using several pieces of poster board I get the correct fit then trace it out on the 1/4" masonite and done. I will wait to carpet it until I get the carpet I ordered.





A few new shots of the parts and the progress while I was at the shop today.





A little info on the 4a-gze
Toyota 4A-GZE Engine

1987 saw the release of supercharged version of 4A-GE engine, which was named 4A-GZE. 16 valve DOHC engine was sharing the same cast iron short block with second generation 4A-GE. This block was strengtened by 7 external vertical ribs as opposed to three found on earlier engines. All dimensions, 1587cc with 81.0mm bore x 77.0mm stroke were were also the same with 4A-GE. 4A-GZE was utilizing a SC12 supercharger paired with a Nippon Denso air-to-air intercooler mounted right underneath the engine cover's cooling vent. SC12 was a positive displacement root supercharger developed by Toyota. It was featuring teflon coated rotors and an electro-magnetic clutch controlled by the ECU. During low and mid-range engine operation, when power was not required, electro-magnetic clutch on the superchargerís input shaft was disengaged, idling the supercharger unit. During acceleration and high engine load ECU engaged the electromagnetic clutch and the supercharger started to pump in air.

4A-GZE incorporates several modifications in order to cope with forced induction. Cast aluminum pistons were replaced with lower compression ceramic coated forged aluminum ones along with a stronger cranckshaft and forged connecting rods. Cylinder head gasket was made of carbon with steel wires around the bores for better sealing. Camhaft design was revised to provide better valve timing, and the fuel injection system has been recalibrated. To round out the development, the intake and exhaust tracts have also been tailored to the new engine. Just like other Toyota engines, 4A-GZE went through some modifications to increase and efficiency. Although there is no such official classification from Toyota, 4A-GZE engine are generally collected under three generations.


First Generation

First generation of 4A-GZE was released with AW11 Toyota MR2 in 1987 . One year later JDM AE92 Toyota Levin recived 4A-GZE engine. First generation was using distributor type ignition coupled with an air flow meter, knock sensor and an oxygen sensor. Compression ratio was 8.0:1. First generation 4A-GZE engines were delivering 145hp at 6400RPM and 186Nm at 4400RPM.



Second Generation

Second generation 4A-GZE was only used in JDM AE92 Toyota Levin between 1991-1992. In second generation 4A-GZE, the distributor type ignition was replaced with direct-fire twin coil igniton using a MAP air sensor. Big port head was changed with small port head and the compression ratio was increased to 8.9:1. With the new improvements engines output was raised to 165hp at 6400RPM and 201Nm at 4400RPM.

Third Generation

Third generation 4A-GZE was used to power AE101 Toyota Levin between 1992 to 1995. Third generation 4A-GZE was almost the same with second generation. The only change was the smaller diameter pulley used in supercharger to provide extra boost. Third generation engines were the most powerfull of all 4A-GZE engines delivering 170hp at 6400RPM and 206Nm at 4400RPM.

Production of 4A-GZE ended in 1995 with release of 20V 4A-GE engine.


The JDM third gen is what I think I have as it has the smaller pulley on the charger.

stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Here we go on the box for the W7

I am using the specs from the JL website for a ported enclosure. The difference is that instead of one port on the side I am running two. If I get the math and measurements right it will pound. Size is 1.3 cubic feet and; and 332 cubic inches of port volume.






The Mid/High range amp in front of the box. As you can see the box is actually pretty small. Well that amp is huge, but anyway. The sub amp is half that size.

The rest of the audio should be here on Monday. Tomorrow is paneling and finishing up the box.

I am doing a light grey interior but want to do something fancy with the dressing pieces I will make once I get the car back. So I did the box in black. I will do lettering in the cover pieces and they will show up as black lettering on grey carpet. Again this is the under carpeting and will not show. Interior volume minus the speaker is 1.02ft


Everything has arrived

Made the new door panels and set the speakers in to see how they look. Then the subwoofer and box.


stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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I connected the amp and the sub in my brothers car today to see what it could do and WOW! It hits as hard as a set of tens. It hits from 28Hz on up clean, clear and very hard. It will give you that Oh wow face when listening to a base test track. It leaves you saying "that can't only be an 8" sub, that has to be a pair of 12s." or thats what my neighbor said before seeing the sub.lol.

The rear panels.

The back of the panel and it in the car.

I cant wait to cover these with the grey vinyl and see what they look like.

Ok so I finally got some time and on the second try I figured out this vinyl I have. It is still cold out so I hope it does not get all wrinkled in the heat but looks great for now.




The other side before the holes are cut.

These are just placed in and not installed.

Now the door panels.

The fit against the interior jam trim

The view down the side.

stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Look! New plastic parts in the color of my chioce!



Color match

Ok just joking. Here is how they went from nasty brown to new matching grey.

First this and a pressure washing.


Then these two following the directions.

And here the parts are after primer.

I know this wont hold up on the parts you touch allot however it will work fine for the components that get almost no wear.

Alright! Enough interior, now some pictures of the good stuff.

Transmission is in and just needs the cross-member welded in

Everything up front fit really nicely.

Look coil ignition, no distributor.


New location for the shifter

The new hydraulic clutch.


The location of the resevor for the clutch


Just ordered this.

It converts the front sway,system(sway bar, lower control arms, TC rod, cross member) into something like the AE86 only strong enough for rally/high speed racing. This provides the same stering feedback and control as the AE86.
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=102972

All this waiting is getting hard to stand. :cry:

And congratulations if your Internet connection allowed this to load!

jromo04
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Fullerton CALIFORNIA

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Clean man keep up the good work.
Jinsoku




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NORCAL/Maxwell AFB Alabama

 Re: KP 61 sleeper build. Picture Heavy! (stupidstuff) » Reply  Edit





Looks great!! cant wait to see updates!!!!




green tea kit kat and mochi...
corollarules


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Moreno Valley ca

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very nice
Elvin




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Elvin Wes Your California Importer

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I like thiss build up thread



westtoyconnection@yahoo.com
MazterDizazter


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Marshfield MA

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Loving this build!!! Keep up the great work. I can't wait to see the finished project!



1987 Toyota MR2 hardtop
20v blacktop 4A-GE
Ground control, Koni, Cusco, ST
XXR, Toyo, Wilwood, EBC, Odyssey
Recaro, MOMO, Fidanza, SPEC


stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Thanks everyone. I plan to get it back from the shop in the next two weeks then I will start putting the interior in it. Eventually I will get injectors and an ECU then have it dyno tuned. I hope to get some more pics this week if I can make it to the shop. But that is a three hour drive one way so maybe next week.
Dr3aMyS0b
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AMESBURY MA

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Nice build didn't you post this on Grasscity i think i saw it there one day while i was bored.
stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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I did post it there. That place is devoid of good builds in there auto section. But there are other reasons I use that forum. lol
stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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New stuff


You can see the back half of the intercooler is in the finder well.

Starting to look sick


They had to modify the output to the charger and the inlets to the intercooler.


Just the rear end and some finishing touches and she will be ready to come home and get her new interior.


Some before and after pics.


This new front end was a project that T3 worked on for a while. Basically he built it for his rally customers and high speed racers. This is essentially what people had to custom build themselves if they wanted better handling and a stronger front end. Now T3 offers it as a bolt on kit. I cant wait to see how this little monster corners and i hope I got the spring rate soft enough that it does not ride to ruff.


Before

After

front suspension before

After


Modified by stupidstuff at 8:11 AM 2/18/2012

Bisons86


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Mililani HI

 Re: KP 61 sleeper build. Picture Heavy! (stupidstuff) » Reply  Edit


Nice job!
stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Here are the wheels I ended up with. After much scrubing they came clean. Then I taped them off and gave them a coat of satin black to highlight the old 8 spoke patern. So a little restore work with some new rubber and they will look great






Modified by stupidstuff at 11:20 AM 2/23/2012
Jeonsah
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ah ****. This build just got awesome with those wheels.



WTB AE86 Best Motoring International Vol. 42. Pm if you have it!
stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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New rubber mounted on freshly restored supra rims.

mikeyee
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Fremont ca

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nice!!!!!



http://about.me/myee

Mike Yee's Corolla resource page: https://sites.google.com/site/ncalae86/resources-1

Jeonsah
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Source some center caps for those wheels!

Modified by Jeonsah at 11:12 AM 2/25/2012



WTB AE86 Best Motoring International Vol. 42. Pm if you have it!
stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Ok so some progress and things are looking better.

sorry for the crappy pics. I was using my Iphone.

They will fit with a role or maybe some small flares. Yes the front of the car is complete and you cant see the intercooler. Sleeper indeed muahahaha.

The fule pump mounted under the Axle

The axle is mounted and awaiting the new kaaz LSD and new 3.91 gear set. I will post better ones next week.


stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Some updates.
The T3 short shift kit is in.

The engine compartment is finished

Anybody like the stance?

Do they fit?

Perfect!

The rear springs.

stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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I went to the shop today to get things finalized. I am scheduled to pick the car up next Friday. I won't hold my breath. This will likely be the last update until I get the car.

Shots of the front end.

Shot of the rear. I still don't know what they are planning for the sway bar.


Going to have to role the rear pretty good.

stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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This was a post I made over on kp61.net exactly one month ago today. This in reference to the shop I am using in Oakland Ca. Performance Options.

Quote, originally posted by stupidstuff »
Well I must admit to getting a bit upset with the shop:evil:
They told me two months and the estimate was $5500 to install the parts I provided including an lsd they were to source. The only parts I added was the new bolt on front end.

I was looking over the invoice I got while I was there Friday and the new estimate is $6700 and the LSD I was told I had is not listed nor do they seem to know anything about it. ???.

I talked to the mechanic three+ weeks ago and he said they were starting on the axle. So nothing was done other than piddly **** in three weeks. Then they can't get the steering knuckles to work because they put the struts on the wrong side and I had to tell them about the issue, they totally missed it. I am getting pissed.

I may still be getting a good deal but $1200 over the loosely agreed price with the TRD LSD missing and a month late is not good.

Fast forward one month.
Well here we are, a month later and still not done. I am so tired of there BS time lines and there lowball estimates I could puke. There bid went so far over there initial estimate of $5500 I don't want to post it(I wish it had stopped at 7500) Lets just say they are so far over I am loosing my mind. I was told it would be ready by Friday. "No problem" they said. Now they say it will be pushing it to be ready on friday,and I don't get a rear sway bar like I was told I would. Also the Tachometer is not going to work, ???!

So around 3 grand over budget, two months late, and items for me to deal with later that are supposed to be included in the swap. This shop may do great work but they are a Hack Job bait and switcw operation otherwise. They quoted me a low estimate and after the point of no return they tell you it is a time and material job and they were 70% off. Oops sorry.

All that was left to do as of last friday was.....
-assemble the rear end and install the drive shaft and sway bar.
-attach exhaust and fab up a 2 foot section of it
-bleed the brakes And clutch
-set a tire safe ride hight and aline the front end to my specs.
-get road ready and double check everything.

I am considering getting a trailer and just picking it up Friday and me finishing what I have already way over paid them to do.

I hate to have to make this problem public but this shop is operating on very poor ethics that are borderline against the law by using a bate and switch tactic. Offer to do the work at a really good price then once it's to late to turn back jack up the price and blame it on whatever they should have seen coming.
So my personal rating of Performance Options is this.*

Work quality- 9/10 Joey seems to do fantastic work.* This may change depending on how everything works and holds up after I put some use on the work done.

Communication- 0/10 they have not called me more than once in 4 months.*About 99% of all communication was me calling them. Only to hear lies and BS and "I need to ask the mechanic". Like the shop forman has no clue what is happening on a build happening in his shop.LOL. Remember I have stayed paid in full the entire time.

Ability to maintain schedule- 0/10 they are two months late already on a two month estimated timeline putting them 100% over and counting.

Ability to stay on budget- 0/10 They used a major lowball estimate to get me in the door, knowing all the parts being used in the build ahead of time. Then half way through the build they inform me it is a time and material job and oops they were just 70% off on there estimate.*

Overall rating- I am considering legal action so 2/10 seems polite. I would advise anyone considering this shop look at there estimates of price and time as total bs. I would just avoid them all together.

FujiwaraEightSix




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Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with Performance Options, best of luck to you with your future builds.




-Rick Cunanan
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SlideYourRide
Check us out on Facebook! :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Taks86




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Hell

 Re: (FujiwaraEightSix) » Reply  Edit


Ouch. This is not good to hear. Shame that something that is coming out so well and looks so bad *** is causing you a nightmare. good luck with getting everything worked out.
~Mike



1986 RHD AE86 Levin coupe
2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R
2012 Impreza (base) (the gf's)
2013 BRZ
ONA
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Hercules CA

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Somebody has to take a chill pill and relax. it is a project and the old adage applies that projects are money pits. Everyone knows that every time you make an estimate on your project you have to make leeway for everything and anything that can go wrong, even though its being handled by a reputable shop. The rule of thumb is once you make an estimate, double even triple that. Even the well known customizing shops miss delivery targets due to unforeseen circumstances.

Your Starlet is old and parts for it are no longer available (NLA). Scrounging around for parts is not easy. Try looking for parts for an old Corolla, like I have. My Corolla project estimate was for 6 months, but it took a year to finish with my budget shot to hell by being 3x what was estimated by myself and Joey. I'm pretty happy with the results, though. Just be patient and you'll enjoy the fruits of your patience.

I've seen your car and I tell you that the mechanical work done is top notch. I have yet to see a shop in that area that caters to old school Toyotas, Datsuns, Nissans, Mazdas, etc., do as fine a workmanship as Performance Options. The conversion to a JDM spec 4AGZE is not easy. You can"t expect it to work right out of the box. You have to expect some hiccups in development. It's not like attaching a Roush kit on a modern Mustang where tons of R&D have been performed. You're in unknown territory even though a ton of people have done it, no conversion is going to be the same as the another.

As for me, I am not an employee or even a part of Performance Options. I am just a very satisfied customer of theirs and hate to see things like this happening to them. As with any motor shop there will be people who like or dislike their work. You can't please everybody. I don't post on any of the forums even though I subscribe to several. My cars are to be enjoyed by friends and myself. I just could not let this pass without defending Joey and Performance Options who have become my good friends.

As stated by FujiwaraEightySix, good luck on your next project, as you know you can never only have one. Peace!

stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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No offense friend but this is not my first car build. Just the first one I have had done and my first import.

I think the work quality is fantastic and Joey knows his ****. I never said anything bad about that part. I have only seen this kind of quality on some of the nicest hotrod builders. Again top notch craftsmanship.

However anyone who suggest that two to three times over on an estimate is normal needs help. You either be honest and say it is a "time and material job" from the start and have the customer sign something to that effect. Or you bid it and stay within 10%. THAT IS how bid contract jobs are done legally. As a contractor I would never get away with more than 10% with out documentation to justify the overages were the result of the client adding things and not my bad estimating skills. When a client tells you everything they have to spend from day one and you don't keep within that limit knowing that you won't from the start is poor customer service at best.

Also when the client tell you "I have no other vehicle so I need to know how long it will take". You over shoot it to not feed them BS and leave them scrambling for two months with no car. Also, for what ever reason, the car sat untoutched for at least a month while waiting on nothing, not needing any parts to keep going.

Either way it is a mute point as the car is finished with just some minor issues to deal with. As long as the bill does not go up any more I will be pleased. But don't for a minut suggest that this is how it is done or should be done. There are other shops I have done business with during this build, including the shop/manufacturer that recomended Performance Options, and are more well known and more respected that agree with my assessment. So I need no approval from a satisfied customer as every car and experience with a shop is different. Yours was good. Mine has been a slog.

There communication has been better of late and they say the bill wil not go up. So I am not as upset. I am just ready to use my DD that I spent 17grand on.

Modified by stupidstuff at 10:08 AM 3/31/2012

stupidstuff
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The secret valley Ca

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Well everything is done and running. The last little issue is the super charger will not engage. The clutch is working on the charger, the charger relay is functioning. The ECU is not commanding the charger to engage for some reason. As far as I know the ECU only needs input form knock sensor and the throttle positioning sensor. But there is NO information on the JDM wiring. So it may be the ECU, TPS, or the knock sensor. It could also be something I know nothing about as I can't find the info I need.


The first time I herd it run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwCSZZbJEu4

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