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 Differences in various AE86 in the USA...when contemplating purchase.First  1 2 3 >  Last
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RHDBEDOLLA
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1581 posts [91%]
562 ca

 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ Reply  Edit


now a days its pretty hard to come by hatchbacks right?

also finding straight bodies with out rust..

what is the price average of hactbacks all four years?

also are the 1986 worth more money than the other years?

thanks in advance for the 411




fiberglass fabricator


ronny
RnD Office - Ronny



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7077 posts [89%]
Irvine CA

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (RHDBEDOLLA) » Reply  Edit


0-18000 dollars.

either u want a POS or a good one. chassis is same anyway.



VOLK TE37 only....!

project plan- 86 TWINKIES - has Begun..

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GARAGE_86
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6879 posts [100%]
Master P.

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (RHDBEDOLLA) » Reply  Edit


when you go to the ghetto or a secluded town.......a gts hatch is sometimes 500 dollars or below 1k from a old person or a minority....comes with oranges also... yum

police or car auctions .. less than 1k ..comes with some crack or extra parts...

in the internet or from a asian dude or worse a fat middle age filipino dude (tito boy ) ..hehe.. up to over 3k to 20k...

and no a 1986 doesnt cost any more..

1986 = AE86 ...nope...



AE86Nights
Tigere Llantas

"From all the years , I learned not everyone in a AE86 corolla is automatically your friend ...A car doesn't make someone automatically a TRUSTED person "

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  » Reply  Edit


I got mine (hatchback gt-s) from an old cuban that didn't speak english 1k 3 years ago.




gtstwincam16@hotmail.com :thumbup:

KumaXL




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1454 posts [86%]
Graveyard in SoCal

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (GARAGE_86) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by GARAGE_86 »
when you go to the ghetto or a secluded town.......a gts hatch is sometimes 500 dollars or below 1k from a old person or a minority....comes with oranges also... yum

police or car auctions .. less than 1k ..comes with some crack or extra parts...

in the internet or from a asian dude or worse a fat middle age filipino dude (tito boy ) ..hehe.. up to over 3k to 20k...

and no a 1986 doesnt cost any more..

1986 = AE86 ...nope...

LOL man the oranges comment is just to random. Is there something you're not telling us?



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Elvin




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Elvin Wes Your California Importer

  » Reply  Edit


Wow everybody's so nice now.

awww how cute

i love you ALL





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11371 posts [98%]
Southern California CA

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (RHDBEDOLLA) » Reply  Edit


Hum, I think hatchbacks are just as hard to find as any 2 door coupes...in the GTS form. More GTS were sold has hatchbacks, you know. This is if you count NOT the SR5 versions.

Straight bodies will come mainly from enthusiast sellers who in one way or another spend some money into it, and will command a higher sale asking price. Not that it's a bad thing, but you need to know what exactly he spent the money on. I mean spending money on an old tired motor to replace a dead motor doesn’t really add to the value of it in the end, nor an engine swap that wasn't done correctly. A fresh paint may be a good thing, but make sure dents and dings were repaired properly to ‘your’ satisfaction. A straight body can mean it was done right, or it can ALSO mean this car has 40lbs of BONDO hiding a rusted out quarter panel.


It’s not easy to be picky about AE86 these days as they don’t come up for sale often enough to define it as easy to find.
But with so much enthusiasm for it now than 10 years ago, I would imagine the selection can be full of better cars that run properly.
Take your time though, and look for something you can get to like.
Any, I mean ANY AE86 will be a certain amount of work, unless you bought a ground up restoration car for $20,000 from a loving restorer.
Otherwise its just another used 20 year old Corolla that’s been on the road for 150,000+ miles no matter how much money previous owner poured into it to keep it running.
Pretty or not, it’s not without issues on something THAT old. Ask anyone who owns ANY 20 year old car.
AS long as you are prepared and educated about it, and enthusiastic about maintenance, you will see joy come from ownership and belonging to community of other owners here at Club4AG and other places.

There is NO such thing right now as a “average price” as these cars are now collectibles among many.
Kelly Blue Book or similar can’t estimate a car this old accurately and is not in the business of rating non-consumer good like a 20 year old car.
Just to give a reference though, I will give you a current Manheim Auction Value (a price which dealer will likely pay at an industry private auction to buy, or take in as trade in towards a purchase of another car in the USA)
As of November 19, 2007, it is at High mark of $775 and low mark of $175. This translates to an estimated Retail Sales Value of $1375 to $703, for a Used Car Dealer guideline.

However, this isn’t much of a reference unless you are negotiating against a “Joe Moe” Used Car Dealer.

Some owners may be mislead to thinking his own car is valued very high by seeing other ‘restored’ cars sell for much more. Others may truly have restored it to great extent making it worth the price.
Still, others may just been owner of it since several years ago and not know or care about all the current collector status.
Prices you may see can be as much as $20,000 to as little as $100 for a running car.

So how exactly do you value it?

Well start with a figure of $1500. That’s as much an average guy will pay for a AE86 in it’s base state of freeway commuter that’s seen better days.
Now add the value of HOW SOON you want this thing… If next week, then you pay whatever premium of not seeing what’s coming up for sale in the next few months, right?
Maybe more or maybe less, who knows? It’s like searching EBAY for a classic guitar or that one Hot Wheels you been looking for.

More realistically though, value the improvements, restorations, maintenance history, and spare parts if applicable.
Here you might want to consult with someone with experience of ownership of AE86. Lots of people here can help, including me…if you care to send me a email, maybe photos, and papers…but without actually seeing the car, there’s not much beyond that we can do over the internet…and you just need to use your best judgments based on education here and other places, IF you can’t take an expert with you. A man who normally restores cars or works on them as profession or avid long hobby, are also great help, as many items to check are common to many cars. I would say your JOE SHMO buddy next door versed in magazine articles and hyped on accessories are not usually a good reference though, as these are typically people who own cars biased on the ‘cool’ factor and typically jump in and out of cars, not spending time with any of them for a long time to know well enough about cars at all. Only what fits on your car, what can be hacked for magical horsepower and what color steering wheel is available for it.

Back to the suggestions, each repair of pending high-cost service such as transmission work, engine work, body/frame damages all add value.
Good rule of thumb is asking how much it typically costs to do these repairs and add half the value of that to the purchase price guidelines.
Things such as a rebuilt engine less than 20K miles ago, cost $2000 work, so add $1000…for example.
New upgraded sports suspension (if it is something you WANT to keep) cost $2500, so add $1250.
Shiny new paint (if done professionally) costs $1000 minimum. So figure to add $500 or more depending on how fancy this job is.
Be fair though, if you know that pearl white paint costs $4000 to do then $2000 is not unheard of to pay for that on the car.
Same time, if you know a $150 muffler job is claimed to be $800, be wary of the rest of the car.
So on so forth…
Whatever you are planning to do, if it’s done already, then you can buy for half the cost right, with the car?


You can see, that it can start to climb…in value. It’s not uncommon for a AE86 to be mechanically sound and well maintained to look hideous with faded paint…and sell for $5000 and well worth the cost.
On the other hand, you can see a cherry, Maguire’s Waxed Shine “JDM Panda” two-tone paint on a mint-looking AE86 to be worth only $2500 because the frame might be bent underneath beyond repair, hiding under the carpet, or broken stuff everywhere.

Do some homework here on Club4AG and you should be able to find one that’s in your price range, reasonably sound, and enjoyable as a project car/daily driver for years to come.


Bottom line: Have fun looking around and as many as you can come by. And expect ALL of them to need your loving attention, cash and time. NO AE86 will be a replacement of a 2007 Corolla as daily driver free of problems. It's a hobby and a way of life...



Moto Miwa
Founder/ Administrator Club4AG
moto@club4ag.com

Moto-P
Founder/Webmaster - wwwClub4ag.com



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11371 posts [98%]
Southern California CA

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Moto-P) » Reply  Edit


OH and one more detail you asked:

Difference of 1985~1987 model AE86 (Corolla GTS in the USA)

1984/1985 are considered “early” or in Japanese terms “zenki” years as often referred to by Club4AG members.

These are the first editions of the AE86 frame. It has the first generation 4A-GE engine which never changed on all AE86 to its last year with the TVIS variable intake port engine. This engine was an upgrade engine over the standard SR5 grade AE86’s 4A-C 1.6L engine. (AE85 in Japan due to smaller 4A-C 1.5L version and slightly less rigid frame void of several reinforcement braces on the uni-body frame). This version of the 4A-GE features four valves per cylinder, hence 16 Valves) driven by a belt driven dual overhead camshaft, a major difference over the 4A-C and also is port fuel injected via a fully electronic fuel injection module, as opposed to only ignition computer control mated to a carburetor fueling of the 4A-C. These engines also powered other front drive Corolla siblings in the years and is only different in peripheral changes to accommodate it in a sideways mount format necessary to drive the front wheels. The rear drive components share some parts with older E70 Corollas but for the most part, it is specific to these AE86 Rear drive Corolla are even different between SR5 and GTS models in differential gear size and brakes. They are interchangeable only as a whole unit aft of the transmission to the brakes, but cannot be swapped for individual parts.
The front suspension assembly, however, are interchangeable and in OEM form, only differ in spring rates very slightly.

In 1986~1987 cars, the “late” models or “kouki” in Japanese the following were added or changed (that’s of real significance)

1. tail lights were restyled
2. headlight trim, corner markers, and front grill has been restyled to amber reflectorized trim, from black plastic.
3. fenders were changed to accommodate the plastic protection ring to trace the wells.
4. interior pieces featured more fabric, and was added to the doors and inner quarter armrests.
5. seat pattern changed and used heavier grade fabric.
6. instrument cluster gained a lined pattern over the plain black paneling.
7. decals on the side became smaller designating the GTS and TWINCAM.
8. on 2 door coupes, a center trim was added to connect the design of the tail lamps.
9. Ignition lockout switch at the clutch pedal was added (mid 1985~)
10. slight modification to ECU programming to accommodate better idling in the colder climates. (no power added however)
11. Power windows became an option on VERY few cars. (Common in Japan)
12. Slight changes to the wire harness to accommodate more efficiency at the production assembly line.
13. Cup holders added to center console armrest (though so flimsy we rarely see them intact on most cars)
14. more sound proofing at the floor (barely noticeable)
15. OEM wheels restyled from “Pizza” to “Mesh” and gold wheels no longer an option.
16. some structural bracing was added at floor pan and cross beams at the rear wheel arch for crash safety (for good or bad, it makes the car slightly heavier, but at same time more rigid), but not enough to warrant any advantages by todays’ standards.
17. Also note: while Japanese models have different bumpers from early to late models, the USA models had the same high-impact bumpers for all years.
18. For the GTS models, a white/black two tone nor plain white color was never a option in the USA despite it’s popularity in Japan models. (white was available in the USA on SR5 only)

That about sums it up…

Most of the differences are cosmetic thus it becomes a matter of personal taste. Many of them are interchangeable with little or no modifications.
Only exception is the wheel arch, as early models featured smooth steel fenders, the late model has a grooved panel under the plastic trim protector.
It will require a paint and body work to make it look smooth as the early model and to fit a close tolerance oversized wheel as dictated by popularity to do so.

Since the car is between 24 and 20 years old, it is irrelevant to value one model worth more than another based on what is newer, they are both way too old for that.
Much more important is the condition of the car. Exterior is easy to repair or improve though any body shop and spare parts as are most mechanical parts.
However, interior parts are for the most part, no longer available at the dealers or aftermarket, and are extremely expensive if they are still in stock.
Otherwise, there’s not much luck in finding better pieces of interior on other cars as they are all that age and has baked in the sun for two decades and abused by many previous owners.
Clean interior parts therefore is a MUST in consideration list, IF you plan on keeping it fully stocked in the inside. (forget abut it if you want to make a tin can race car out of it though…LOL)
Upholstery can be restored but plastic parts like dashboard and other panels are not, to it’s original state.
Just to give you an example… there is a 1985 burgundy red dashboard, very few, are still in stock from Toyota USA as of this writing. It has not changed in price much from 20 years ago, but it’s about $600 for the upper section, void of cluster or trim.
No more black or blue dash available.

SUNROOF... Some cars were equipped with metal sliding power sunroof. This may be a preferred option for daily users, but if you are taller than 5'10" and plan to go racing in it, keep in mind that this feature lowers the ceiling height by 3/4 inch so it may butt agaisnt your helmet. (something that can be solved via racing seats mounted lower) Also, any holes in any parts of the body inherently weaken the rigidity slightly, so generally a sunroof equipped car is not highly endorsed for AE86 that will see lots of racing use.

Club4AG statistics dictates that US AE86 enthusiasts like the “LATE” model better for more plush interior and headlight /taillight designs.
However, this shouldn’t really be a cause to consider one being more expensive than the other.
It’s not everybody’s rule…nor everyone’s preference.

Hatchbacks are also in more demand it seems...
BUT it has its distinct advantages and demerits as well.

Hatchback can carry more cargo as its cabin is dimensionally roomier aft of the rear seats. (more tires for track day)
It’s slightly more aerodynamic (so it’s used traditionally on more race cars in the past, and famous for racing heritage)

Demerits though also to keep in mind:

The 2 door coupes are sturdier as there is a second firewall between the trunk and rear seats for added reinforcement by its nature.
This means no misaligned rear hatches or squeaks and rattles back there, something all 3 door owners must try to come up with solutions for…
Not to mention a hatch that won’t stay open…with old prop struts, or refuse to unlatch remotely from driver’s door! (Can be solved with a set of Mustang hatch struts…)
(Thus 2 doors are frequently seen in Rally trim race cars where durability is more critical than aerodynamics)
Also it is lighter as it’s rear glass window is MUCH smaller.
Did you know that AE86 competed in 1985 and 1986 in the famous Paris-Dakar Trans-Sahara Rally? Both years in 2 door coupes!

So it all evens out, don’t you think? :D

Find one that fits your passion! AE86, are just as fun in any form or shape.






Moto Miwa
Founder/ Administrator Club4AG
moto@club4ag.com

Red




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9661 posts [78%]

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Moto-P) » Reply  Edit


Moto-
Two minor clarifications:
"18. For the GTS models, a white/black two tone nor plain white color was never a option in the USA "
The white color (with white bumpers and black air dam and spoiler) was in fact an option OFFERED FOR SALE in the US in 1985. I know this because I was told my car would arrive in white or gray or red, no choice except take it or leave it. And all three colors were shown in the dealer's flyers--which I had until it was stolen from my trunk during a car theft.
As "we" all know, no one has ever documented a white 1985 GT-S being delivered to the US--but they were offered. Who knows, maybe there was one batch made and a dozen got here.<G>

Also, the "four years" and 1984/85. There was no 1984 GTS in the US. In the US all cars normally start the new model year in September, so a GTS built in September 1984 would still have been built as--and sold as--a 1985 car. Anyone selling an 84 GTS, is selling something else, like a FrankenCar.

Which is something I'd also warn the new buyer about: There are folks who build bastard cars, FrankenCars, with pieces mixed from models and years. If the VIN has an "AE86" in it, the car is a base Corolla or an SR5, no matter what else was put in it. A GTS will always say "AE88" in the VIN.



--Original owner, '85 Corolla GTS. Will trade for a Cadillac-Gage V150, or a Ford GT, in similar condition.
Shawn86




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1035 posts [99%]
bossier city Louisiana

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (RHDBEDOLLA) » Reply  Edit


I find that the year of the car doesnt matter. The condition of the car is what will determine the price. 1987 was the last year made of the AE86. If any thing that would be the most expensive. Just because the chassis is known for the number 86 in it doesnt mean that the year also being 86 is going to drive the price up. Thats just stupid.



The member formerly known as darkdrifter.....


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2046 posts [93%]
East Bay Norcal CA

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Shawn86) » Reply  Edit


Well, I was wondering about this today:

Right now, the smog exemption goes for cars that are 1975 and older in CA.... in a couple years, wouldn't that number advance about a decade to include aging cars of the 80's?

So, say, if that number goes to 1985 in a couple years... then would only 1 year of zenki 86's will be able to enjoy the benefits of the smog exemption, and not the 86 and kouki s?

hmm... well I have an 85 zenki so... zenki FTW?



"You just bought an AE86? Well get ready to empty your wallet and feed it to your car"


blacksun


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 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Drivesan89Caravan) » Reply  Edit


89Caravan from what I've heard(relatives and friends in Cali) smog exemption is gonna stay 1975 and older.TE27 FTW
oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

  » Reply  Edit


.... another small note... some of the AE86(very late) did have slightly stronger blocks.



Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

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2642 posts [87%]
American Canyon CA

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Most GTS 87s came with a manual rack, no ac, better rare blue top 7 rib and they say ae86 in the vin. They also came with sr5 style interior, vin numbers on body panels almost all the parts, and most came as coupes. Its hard to find a 87 hatchback, and there is no such thing as a automatic GTS ae86 in the US.

I personally dig the 85 zenki GTS interior, weither its the grey, maroon and red, its just such a cool pattern. But its not as durable as the cloth fabric in later years.



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Plex




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3761 posts [89%]
Suisun City CA

 Re: (smallport4ag) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by smallport4ag »
...and there is no such thing as a automatic GTS ae86 in the US.

Actaully, there were a few brought over, infact a few members on here used to own them... IIRC it was something like 25 brought over, so they might aswell just not exist... haha



Summa Cum Laude Graduate, AE86 University Class of '02
Shawn86




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1035 posts [99%]
bossier city Louisiana

 Re: (Plex) » Reply  Edit


Late model 4ag as available in the 87 came with 7rib block (much stronger able to hold more torque and boost than 3rib if your into that sort of thing). I believe it was in the last batch made (forgot the months). Mine was made in the last month and year the 86 was made. Original grey paint, 7rib block, black and grey interior (I sol the rear seats ). I was extremely lucky with my ae. But thats all preference as well.



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11371 posts [98%]
Southern California CA

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Red) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Red »
Moto-
Two minor clarifications:
"18. For the GTS models, a white/black two tone nor plain white color was never a option in the USA "
The white color (with white bumpers and black air dam and spoiler) was in fact an option OFFERED FOR SALE in the US in 1985. I know this because I was told my car would arrive in white or gray or red, no choice except take it or leave it. And all three colors were shown in the dealer's flyers--which I had until it was stolen from my trunk during a car theft.
As "we" all know, no one has ever documented a white 1985 GT-S being delivered to the US--but they were offered. Who knows, maybe there was one batch made and a dozen got here.<G>

True, and I did confirm with Toyota Motor Sales USA's database, and they had not sold a single "GTS" trim in white color for dealership consumption. Only two for an SCCA Rally team, which were not registered cars but a semi-factory race cars in terms of documentation.
Techncially it wasn't an "option" since publications were corrected after such decision was made to not offer it. Yes so in wording, "Offered" is a right term as indeed, first brochures may have had them, but never produced.

Quote »

Also, the "four years" and 1984/85. There was no 1984 GTS in the US. In the US all cars normally start the new model year in September, so a GTS built in September 1984 would still have been built as--and sold as--a 1985 car. Anyone selling an 84 GTS, is selling something else, like a FrankenCar.

Which is something I'd also warn the new buyer about: There are folks who build bastard cars, FrankenCars, with pieces mixed from models and years. If the VIN has an "AE86" in it, the car is a base Corolla or an SR5, no matter what else was put in it. A GTS will always say "AE88" in the VIN.

Yes and that's why my description says it was built for the 4 years but model listings above for GTS descriptions state 1985, or 1986~87. :D
For the technical reference...

But you are right, with many GTS and SR5 swapped in parts, it really doesn't make a difference for a potential buyer unless it is for the purose of 'restoration' with paperwork match.

Good Points! I love how versed some of us are and how this can be called true enthusiasm (for others this is ultimate Geekness...and I am one...LOL)



Moto Miwa
Founder/ Administrator Club4AG
moto@club4ag.com

Elvin




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12134 posts [100%]
Elvin Wes Your California Importer

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Moto-P) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Moto-P »

Good Points! I love how versed some of us are and how this can be called true enthusiasm (for others this is ultimate Geekness...and I am one...LOL)

lol



westtoyconnection@yahoo.com
Moto-P
Founder/Webmaster - wwwClub4ag.com



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11371 posts [98%]
Southern California CA

 Re: (Plex) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Plex »

Actaully, there were a few brought over, infact a few members on here used to own them... IIRC it was something like 25 brought over, so they might aswell just not exist... haha

All of them were SR5 transplanted with a 4A-GE by the end user, OR examples brought in and registerd as gray market cars from another region. Toyota Motor Sales USA's database shows no RWD GTS models equipped with AT's between 1984.5~1987.7 (from first to the very last one made for the USA) ANother proof of that woud be that neither CARB, nor EPA has no provision data for a AT equipped AE86 GTS with a 4A-GE, thus proving Toyota never provided them with such a car to be registered.



Moto Miwa
Founder/ Administrator Club4AG
moto@club4ag.com

Moto-P
Founder/Webmaster - wwwClub4ag.com



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11371 posts [98%]
Southern California CA

 Re: (Shawn86) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Shawn86 »
Late model 4ag as available in the 87 came with 7rib block ...


This is true, the original 4A-GE block was modified in 1987 with a stronger block, mainly used for the FWD cars but cease of parts source in factories supplying Toyota, they opted to simply use the new 7 rib block for the last few hundred AE86's in the USA.

Again, not of a huge importance now, that it's 20 years old and will need some kind of a rebuild to bring it back to 'original' performance levels, or more so if proper modifications are in order.



Moto Miwa
Founder/ Administrator Club4AG
moto@club4ag.com

onelungderryl


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2642 posts [87%]
American Canyon CA

  » Reply  Edit


84 had the sickest colors though. The gold, yellow and especially the dark blue. But some of the ugliest interiors like the brown and yellow haha



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oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

  » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Moto-P »
I did confirm with Toyota Motor Sales USA's database

Quote, originally posted by Moto-P »
Toyota Motor Sales USA's database shows no RWD GTS models equipped with AT's

Ok Moto.... give.... This isn't the first thread you have quoted from official Toyota sources... most of which are NOT available to the average enthusiast.

Sooo, it seems like you are writing a book... and since there is no great published reference available for the AE86... I can only assume your connections mean you have far more information then you currently share.... Like for instance
1) total AE86 production with 4AGE as originally equipped(including % of total production)...
2) GTS production per year...
3) #s based on RHD or LHD
4) #s of Levin vs. Trueno

Hmmmm, also... when is the reference upgrade going to occur???



Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

Red




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9661 posts [78%]

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Moto-P) » Reply  Edit


"True, and I did confirm with Toyota Motor Sales USA's database,"
THANK YOU MOTO!

I suspect you must have hired hackers to penetrate the firewall and extract the data. Or, supplied inordinate amounts of spirits to Toyota USA personnel, because they just don't like to discuss things like that with mere civilians.

"9. Ignition lockout switch at the clutch pedal was added (mid 1985~)"
I can confirm that the 6/85 production run was already using the clutch safety switch. Maybe if a few more folks chime in, we can narrow it down to a specific production change set.



--Original owner, '85 Corolla GTS. Will trade for a Cadillac-Gage V150, or a Ford GT, in similar condition.
GSXR Rider




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2236 posts [99%]

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Red) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Red »

"9. Ignition lockout switch at the clutch pedal was added (mid 1985~)"
I can confirm that the 6/85 production run was already using the clutch safety switch. Maybe if a few more folks chime in, we can narrow it down to a specific production change set.

My GTS was manufactured on January 1985, no sun roof and no ignition lockout switch. I can start the car without pressing the clutch.



The worm that destroys you is the temptation to agree with your critics, to gain their approval.

Knuk Knuk/ http://www.infinitwheels.com

That's not a Levin, that's a hachiroku...

Dude, all Levins are AE85!

t(^_^)t

AE86Solo


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593 posts [100%]
Kingston Ontario

 Re: 84,85,86,87$$$$$$$$ (Red) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Red »
"9. Ignition lockout switch at the clutch pedal was added (mid 1985~)"
I can confirm that the 6/85 production run was already using the clutch safety switch. Maybe if a few more folks chime in, we can narrow it down to a specific production change set.

My car was made in September 1984 (1985 model year) and it has no clutch lockout.

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 Re: » Reply  Edit


quick question!

ok so as time goes by lets say 5 years from now lets say a 240sx or integra, the value of the car would obviously decrease but in the other hand we have the ae86 which they are "rare" OR HARD TO FIND, and if they are in mint condition...

WOULD THE VALUE GO UP? OR DOWN OR STAY THA SAME??

whatchu guys think yo



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 Corolla and Valuation?! » Reply  Edit


Well, valuation of a car really depends on the desirability...not on how little there are left or how exciting it really is.

Cars like older Mustangs and Corvettes are still very common. However the prices still hold very well for very clean cars with lots of care. Still, most are beaters and command much less value...

I think as long as the cleanest examples of any car holds a great desirability and value to those who want them around, then beat up ones rather stay around and forever be somebody's project, whether in progress or for "someday" project that sits dead in the garage. The "less" desirable they are, the faster they disappear into the scrap-yards.

In the case of the AE86, the premium desirability is in Japan, and yes it is appreciating...though it will fluctuate from time to time, it's always going to be a vintage for Japanese car history and for collectors there. As such, the USA models may not be as desirable but there's going to be keepers of them for a long time here. Much like many still keep a KP61 Starlet around or old 240Z's.

Never a very expensive hobby by automotive standards, but it's an entry level model for people who build or restore cars for a hobby. That's really what Club4AG is for...is to keep a little flame lit, for someday this Import Tuner craze will ge thing of the past. However and not matter, Club4AG's members will still keep them or pass it on to hands of keepers...who enjoy Compact Toyota Sports Cars...



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 Re: Corolla and Valuation?! (Moto-P) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Moto-P »

In the case of the AE86, the premium desirability is in Japan, and yes it is appreciating...though it will fluctuate from time to time, it's always going to be a vintage for Japanese car history and for collectors there. As such, the USA models may not be as desirable but there's going to be keepers of them for a long time here. Much like many still keep a KP61 Starlet around or old 240Z's.

I wonder if my LHD US ae86 with JDM bumpers,lights, and stuff( except jdm engine,harness,ecu..) is going to be worth something since is not actually a true all jdm. I consider my car less valuable than a full JDM one... thats just me. Is like when you have a new shinny cell phone and you dont want it to scratch it or something. After the first scratch, you dont care anymore... thats how I feel about my car. But one day Ill have enough funds to go to Japan and bring a coupe or two back here. And why not a hatch too... ... and a skyline and a soarer.


Anyways here are my 2 babies. kp61 and ae86 coupe. Might sell kp61 for a hatch 86 or my dad might get a anglia.






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 Re: Corolla and Valuation?! (ura86) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by ura86 »

I wonder if my LHD US ae86 with JDM bumpers,lights, and stuff( except jdm engine,harness,ecu..) is going to be worth something since is not actually a true all jdm. I consider my car less valuable than a full JDM one... thats just me. Is like when you have a new shinny cell phone and you dont want it to scratch it or something. After the first scratch, you dont care anymore... thats how I feel about my car. But one day Ill have enough funds to go to Japan and bring a coupe or two back here. And why not a hatch too... ... and a skyline and a soarer.


In my view, there is nothing more valuable than a restored condition car in all ways. I think since the car is virtually non-existent as low mileage (below 20,000 miles), I feel that a nicely restored one is much more valuable than "all original" with a tired engine and failing parts.

In the same breath, I would say that using Japanese market OEM parts on a USA car detracts nothing from the car. Because the main popularity of these cars is still very much in Japan, I doubt most Japanese collectors will disagree.

Still, one does have to keep in mind to "keep" all the USA parts for when you need to sell the car. Though having an illegal non-DOT bumpers as owner is your choice, you need to be fair and inform that fact when you want to sell the car to someone who may not be aware of that. Insurance non-eligibility and legality issues must be made aware to potential buyers as you can be liable for some hefty convictions, regardless of information, for selling an illegally equipped car in worst case scenario.

Back to the value of the car, I would assume, although a "drift setup" or "race Ready" may be a convenience for those who intend on doing that, a heavily modified car with aftermarket parts generally will not hold value at all for the following reasons.
First of all, these types of cars will be missing a lot of parts from "gutting", the frame of the cars would most likely be "abused" and at times with more than a few body repairs from mishaps, even a bent frame. These cars are not very strong being an 80's Japanese car... Thirdly, these missing parts or broken parts are rather expensive to replace and many times not available. This is especially true for OEM interior parts. A judicious use of TRD parts keeps it somewhat OEM in nature, but 3rd party tuner parts used extensively will be judged on design and desire of the buyer.

99% of the buyers will want the car "complete," and not much "missing." Keep that in mind when buying and selling... It's the owner's choice to modify it, and do as they like...however the more custom it is, the more it may detract from another mans' tastes and therefore run a risk of devaluation in the marketplace. Put back as much as possible when you sell it.

AS for a few scratches? Most educated buyers should be aware that some things can be fixed without much issues... minor body damage, mechanical wear, or stuff needing reconditioning shouldn't really be a concern. It's only the irreversible or expensive needs of repairs that will make a car less a candidate. That would be stuff like major body issues, or grossly missing parts and interior prices.






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oldeskewltoy




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  » Reply  Edit


I've been involved in the pony and muscle car resto industry and I've now been involved with the AE86 for over 13 years. There is a significant difference between the muscle/pony car collector and the eventual AE86 collector. The pony/muscle car needs to be original for top dollar. Resto modded cars are nice, but unless they were done by Boyd Coddington, or Chip Foose, a resto mod is LESS valuable then all original.

Now... with AE86s... this isn't a set rul.... there are some VERY nice unmolested AE86s out there... they will command a premium at some point. Btw.. unmolested includes it being well MAINTAINED... There are a few mildly modded cars that will also be of premium value. Moto hit the nail squarely on the head... FULL interior cars... COMPLETE cars needing little if anything are worth the most, because in the end it really is a sum of the parts is the whole......

Why is a complete car more valuable? Simple really... YOU (to the current fans of the AE86) are the ones who will be paying $10k... $20k... $30k... MORE for one of these...... YES YOU! Not now... not tomorrow.... but when you are 40+ something and you have more money then brains you'll want your youth back... yet... being nearly 50, the harshness of a DD exhaust in an interiorless car might and will be excessive.... am I making any sense yet??????

Sooo with more money then sense you'll see "MotoP's" personal AE86 for sale at Barrett-Jackson, or RM Auctions... (sorry Moto... for some reason it is available for sale!) You know Moto's car is good, and even if it isn't its Motos car... you bid... but there is another ritch SOB who was also a C4AG fan who also has more money than brains........





Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

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