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 DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86First  1 2 >  Last
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nixeighty6


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194 posts [100%]
harrisburg pa

 DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 Reply  Edit


This post is about how i did my water lines in my ae86 when i did a 20v swap. i searched everywhere for a good solution and didn't find anything that i really liked. The water line kits that are on the market are ok and all, but for almost a grand I figured that i'de try my hand at a solution before spending almost as much on the cooling as i did on the motor.

This post is what i did, not whats right or how thing are to be done. This worked for me and hopefully it can help you. I would look at all the options out there before buying into any one idea.

My car heats up quick and dosn't overheat with this set up. Also unlike any other solution i have seen, my car has heat.

First, i unbolted the heatercore and housing from the fire wall so that when i pounded the fire wall i didn't brake anything. then test fited the motor with the thermostat cap out to see where to pound in the fire wall.
pic are the dry fit, start of pounding, and finished pounding



pic of the clearance when i was all finished with the pounding and the motor is totaly bolted in.
if anyone tells you that you dont have to pound the firewall, ask them to prove it, or question the integrety of the source.


when i put the heater core housing in as much as it would go i used duct tape to seal the gap between the upper heater vents that was created because of not being able to put it all the way back in.

I thaught at one time that it might be easiest to run everything above the headers, but as you can see hear thats not a posibility. The gas pedal bracket is what would need pounded. besides i don't like the thaught of the lines runing there, i just didn't make sence to me.

Not being able to go to the exhaust side ment that i needed to flip the thermostat cap. hears the dry fit.
as you can almost see in this pic, the one heater core port is right next to where the outlet needs to be. what you can't see in this pic is that i hade to shave it down just to get the thermostat cap to sit flush on the housing. this creats a problem if your not following what i did for the heat in the car. You might need to press out this fitting and weld it in if your not following the the rest of the heating solution.

To change the thermostat cap to port out the other side, and fit, i moved the bolt ear weided it back on, and shaved down the sensor port, and wlded it in.

the inlet port i also changed to run behind it motor. i made a 45 degree cut an turned it 90 degrees and rewelded to make the port a 90. The tricky part here for me was cutting it correctly so that the angel is down twords the opening behind the bell housing of the transmision. There is enough space to pass the coolant hose through.

If all your doing is coolant lines then you just need to hook them up, i used a hose that came on the ae111, the hoses that i hade from the 16v. and 2 or three others, 2 of them were from the manufacterer DAYCO, the are dayco #'s 70961? and 71268. not sure if there were any more invalved, you might have to seach a parts store for the bends you want. i conected the hoses together with 1.5inch hose repare coupings that i found at pepboys
also if your not hooking up the heater core you need to cap the ports that come out of the thermostat housing.





I used a long S bend out of the top of the radiator, i don't know what this hose is but it say's 70769 on it so i asume that it's a dayco # also. I hooked that to dayco 71268 witch goes around the back of the bell housing of the transmision. and i used a 90degree that goes to the inlet next to the exhaust manifold.

The outlet at the thermostat i used the hose that came on the ae111 motor witch is a 90 to a straight, and hooked that to the factory ae86 lower radiator hose.




i don't have a good pic of the one the leads outof the thermostat, but its the 2nd from the top in the pic below


CONTINUE below



nixeighty6


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194 posts [100%]
harrisburg pa

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (nixeighty6) » Reply  Edit


i put in a new radiator and radiator cap for good mesure. if you have any problems with over heating do a $5 radiator cap before trying anything els. also because of runing lower than the inlet, every time i need to change the coolant, i need to loosen the inlet bolts and let the air out of the system, if not it cavitates- super heats the air in the system, and won't open the thermostat. so every time i do anything to the system i let out the air traped at the inlet.


to do the heating in the car i had to figure out 4 problems.
outlet from the thermostat houing
lines that run to the heater control valve, and to the heater core
the heater control valve it's self
and the heater core it's self


the first thing that you might want to do is the last thing that i found out. with a very short line that runs to the heater core it puts alot of stress on the joint where the ports run into the heater core.
i broke 3 heatercores before figuring this out. finaly i took my heater core to my local welding shop and had him put a beefy sodder joint on it witch curd this problem.
heres a pic of where they broke for me. the next pic is the closest that i have to a pic of the sodder joint


the thermostat housing its self needs modification like brefly stated above. to put the thermostat cap on backwords i needed to make it shorter, so i decided to make it a 90. to do this i needed to press out the straight fitting that was in there from the fctory and make one that was a 90. i used a 1/2inch 90 from the pluming department to get a direction that i wanted it to go and marked this direction on the housing, i then baught an erls fitting # e14 984208, baught it from A&A auto parts, i don't know if the # is diffrent els where. i welded the fitting in the direction that i needed using the thread side to put my hose on.






The heater control valve from the ae86 didn't clear the itb's for me so i used 1/2 inch plumbing supplies to sodder a solution
The part that i have no clue how to tell you to do is getting a 1/2 inch coupling to go over the heater control valve. i used my friends ring expander... like wedding ring. the b itch of this is that the heater control valve is the same size as a 1/2 inch coupling, and they dont make a coupling for a coupling. you might be able to get a cone and pound it over it to somehow get the size you need to fit over the valve.
as you can see i used tape to hold it where i wanted while dry fitting. i then marked them when i had it on where i wanted, and soddered the joints.











painting makes things look finished

the coolant lines i used were again from ither the ones that came on the ae111, or the ones i had from the ae86. and again i'm not sure if there were others involved. you might have to got to your local auto parts store and try to find the bends you need.
the 3 from the botom were what i used for the heater core lines.
the botom most one is form the ae111 motor. it fit perfictly between the top heater control valve and the erls fitting that i welded to the thermostat housing
the second one up went from the thermostat housing to the heater core. witch is just 2 90's put together
the 3rd went from the botom of the heater control valve to the drivers side of the heater core.







one last note while were talking coolant. i broke 2 water pumps in 15 miles when i first did my swap. first thing i did when i got on the road was reved to 8 grand, and one broke. got on from a guy on this forum, drove nice for 10 miles, everything seemed fine, redlined and there went anouther. every body i talk to say's that they hold up fine but i broke 2. i have 15k on my swap now and have not broken another since going to an electric fan.


i post this post not for any gain of my own. i hope sincerly that i don't come accrost like i'm taking down to anyone, or like i know how things are. i'm just trying to supporting a comunity that has supported me.

Best of luck

Sandman SR5




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182 posts [98%]

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just what i was looking for before i made my decision on 20v or 16 thanks
Sandman SR5




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182 posts [98%]

 Re: (Sandman SR5) » Reply  Edit


What kind ofv hammer did you use?
yetzqwikdohc




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872 posts [100%]

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (nixeighty6) » Reply  Edit


awesome post but I think I'm just going to run 2 or 3 90 degree bends and route my radiator hose up over and down under the intake mani. sweet diy though.
nixeighty6


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194 posts [100%]
harrisburg pa

 Re: (Sandman SR5) » Reply  Edit


ball peen hammer is rounded so it has less of a tendance to rip the metal.

joel23




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185 posts [100%]

 Re: (nixeighty6) » Reply  Edit


hey man great work, i am sure u alreday know and dont need tp hear it and thanks i am doing a swap to my corolla and i am putting a bt on it and i had been having a lot of problems with the wiring and the cooling and i appreciate a lot what u have done. Thanks.
nixeighty6


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194 posts [100%]
harrisburg pa

 Re: (joel23) » Reply  Edit



aesthetics82




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1118 posts [99%]
Oceanside CA

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I broke one water pump by using the stock clutch fan, but I think it was because I used spacers to push the stock fan away from the engine (i needed it to clear a bracket) and the vibration from moving it out caused it to break.
Rotawerx
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32 posts [100%]
Auckland

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Loving these threads. Looking to do 20V into KP61, so very helpful stuff
pinoy_dorifto




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984 posts [96%]
Los Angeles CA

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (nixeighty6) » Reply  Edit


can i get a gasket for the 20v water pump?? will the 16v water pump gasket fit???



-=[Dapat mabilis para hinde mahuli ng pulis]=-

-84' Toyota Corolla SR5 Hatch ST20V (Sold to K.C.)
-91' Toyota MR2 N/A Targa 5S (Sold)
-86' Toyota Corolla GT-S Hatch RT16V (My new baby)



supra240z




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171 posts [100%]
Portland Or

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (pinoy_dorifto) » Reply  Edit


Yes the 16v water pump gskt will work just fine:)
domi
mod



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1129 posts [100%]
St. Ann MO

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Above 6K RPM the clutch fan flexes. Killed my water pump as well. Electric ftw!



GeneralPostingPolicy:
...if it sounds sarcastic - don't take seriously,
if it sounds dangerous - do not try this at home, or at all...
and if it offends you - just don't listen to it!
nixeighty6


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194 posts [100%]
harrisburg pa

 Re: (domi) » Reply  Edit


thank you, finnaly someone that will stick up for me.
domi
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1129 posts [100%]
St. Ann MO

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Don't mention it, i was slightly sceptical until i killed my waterpump last night. I had a clutch fan, revved to 7K without holding there, after the engine was warmed up and everything and it leaked a bit of coolant. Made it home with no change in the regular position of the water gauge needle. Started it this morning, bad whine from the water pump. Shut it off and called for a ride to work... =|
Anyone know if the 20V waterpump part# is cross-used in USDM Toyotas?

On that note, i must say that Yoteru did warn me that would happen and it is all my fault for not wiring one of the electric fans i have. A good excuse to garage the car and get to work on it anyway...




GeneralPostingPolicy:
...if it sounds sarcastic - don't take seriously,
if it sounds dangerous - do not try this at home, or at all...
and if it offends you - just don't listen to it!
pinoy_dorifto




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984 posts [96%]
Los Angeles CA

 Re: (domi) » Reply  Edit


lol.. same here... broke 2 water pumps when i revved to 8k twice while having a clutch fan... right now, im keeping it safe, and not passing 7K rpm until i get my electricfan installed...



-=[Dapat mabilis para hinde mahuli ng pulis]=-

-84' Toyota Corolla SR5 Hatch ST20V (Sold to K.C.)
-91' Toyota MR2 N/A Targa 5S (Sold)
-86' Toyota Corolla GT-S Hatch RT16V (My new baby)



rufuz




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220 posts [100%]
Reykjavik

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (nixeighty6) » Reply  Edit


Respect in the loads for writing this up!

Got a pic of the whole thing?

ae86evo
Member



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1099 posts [71%]

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (rufuz) » Reply  Edit


ARE YOU GUYS JUST CAPPING OFF THE HEATER CORE INLET AND OUTLETS OFF THE BLOCK IF USING NO HEAT? i read not to loop them and just to cap them off but i wanted to get some experienced points of view. let me know what you guys did. thanks
hervy77
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2 posts [100%]
Las Vegas NV

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (nixeighty6) » Reply  Edit


Hi I'm new to this web site and I was wondering if anybody knows or point me in the right direction on how to do an s2000 engine swap on a 86?
ae86evo
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1099 posts [71%]

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (hervy77) » Reply  Edit


THIS IS THE STUFF THAT KEEPS PEOPLE LIKE US GROWING...OTHERS THAT TAKE TIME TO HELP AND GIVE GUIDANCE.. thanks for your experience. this write up helped me finish my cooling system on my s/t
nixeighty6


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194 posts [100%]
harrisburg pa

 Re: DIY: 20v water lines in an ae86 (rufuz) » Reply  Edit


its to cramped to get a real pic, sorry... hears a pic of the whole engine bay though

KumaXL




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1454 posts [86%]
Graveyard in SoCal

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Or you guys could look at John's thread just below this one on using the 16v water pump on the 20v. Not to talk $hit you did a fine job.



"Obstacles exist only to be broken" - A very misguided man.
KID
Moderator



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135 posts [100%]
Frankfurt

 Re: (KumaXL) » Reply  Edit


can somebody tell me were this line goes to???



Brust




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237 posts [99%]
Arlington VA

 Re: (KID) » Reply  Edit


It goes to your intake plenum. If I'm looking at your circle right, it's the line that goes from your intake plenum to the IACV (idle air control valve) and from the IACV to the port on the ITB's.
BlackTruenoAE86




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3156 posts [96%]
San Antonio Texas

 Re: (Brust) » Reply  Edit


I believe the reason your water pumps are breaking is because they are FWD water pumps and are not designed to carry the stress of a clutch fan. I know because I had a red top do that to me, you compare a fwd water pump and a ae86 water pump the ae86 water pump has alot more reinforcements.

I never trust electric fans....

here is a picture. I don't know if you guys can notice

dr.occa




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2382 posts [93%]
The Lonestar State

 Re: (BlackTruenoAE86) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by BlackTruenoAE86 »
I believe the reason your water pumps are breaking is because they are FWD water pumps and are not designed to carry the stress of a clutch fan. I know because I had a red top do that to me, you compare a fwd water pump and a ae86 water pump the ae86 water pump has alot more reinforcements.

I never trust electric fans....

here is a picture. I don't know if you guys can notice

-back from a short dirt nap-

great illustration Emilio

and +1 for your ingenuity nixeighty6 on the water line routing.



86 Garage Magazine
"Strictly All Things 86"
silver_hatch2




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800 posts [88%]

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can kind of welder did you use when you welded the 90 degree fitting onto the thermostat housing (one for heater core)
Plex




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3761 posts [89%]
Suisun City CA

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Doesn't the heater core copper needs to be braized, not welded?



Summa Cum Laude Graduate, AE86 University Class of '02
teamdod
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6 posts [100%]
Yuma AZ

 Re: (Plex) » Reply  Edit


if you dont use the heater do you have to bridge the lines together?
jspexae102


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1141 posts [91%]
Union City CA

 Re: (teamdod) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by teamdod »
if you dont use the heater do you have to bridge the lines together?

no, you plug each of the lines. If you bridge them you bypass the radiator and have hot running into cold. Think about it, when you turn off the heater, you are just shutting of the path to the cabin radiator.



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