For some reason this information is not all in one place on this site, if at all. so hopefully this can help you guy's in your searching and researching.
This is using a complete ae111 wiring harness and ECU, and a complete gt-s - ae86 engine harness. i used ae86 alternator, starter, and a/c.
you should have a good understanding of how to do wiring, soddering and the basic understanding of how a cerciut works.
Start by marking every plug as you pull the harness off the motor, then remove all the wire lume from harness, rap electrical tape once or twice around the wires every 6 inches or so, also where ever wires split off or come in. this is to keep the wires neet.
Do the same for the ae111 wiring harness, where the harness passes through the fire wall there is a cast ruber lume compression thing going on, be real easy and cut the rubber as you pull each wire out individually, try not to cut the wires, after marking all the wires you can start removing what is not needed, just go slow and trace where stuff is going and where it came from.
after you have both of the harnesses out and labled, and the ae111 harness reduced to what you need, you basicly cut the wires out of the ae86 -gts harness and sodder them in the ae111 harness where needed.
Heres what worked for me
There are six conectors that you are dealing with when doing a b/t to ae86, gts swap.
(1.) ae111 ecu plug 1 , 26 pin conector
(2.) ae111 ecu plug 2 , 16 pin conector
(3.) ae111 ecu plug 3 , 22 pin conector
(4.) ae86 ecu plug t , 14 pin conector - comes off in car harness
(5.) ae86 fire wall harness , 11 pin conector
(6.) ae86 engine harness "not ecu" , 13 pin conector - goes to fuse and relay box near ecu.
to simplify thing i'll refer to these plugs as stated above.
In the ae111 swap to the ae86 most of the wire for the (1.) ae111 ecu plug 1 , 26 pin conector are unchanged exept for the els1, els2, els3 and cf pins witch are not needed in this application.
in the (2.) ae111 ecu plug 2 , 16 pin conector els4 is not needed, and i hooked e2 to (4.) ae86 ecu plug t , 14 pin conector pin, e2 sensor ground. all the others are unchanged
on the (3.) ae111 ecu plug 3 , 22 pin conector there are 6 wires that needs to be hooked up to it's place on the ae86 wireing.
starting at the start. this is first (3.) ae111 ecu pin then where it hooks to on ae86
sta, blk-w - to (5.) ae86 fire wall harness blk-w wire also - spit to starter signal wire blk-w
act are not needed, you do however cut the wire for the a/c magnetic clutch for the ae86 ecu. my car does blow cold air
sp1, purple/w - to (4.)ae86 ecu plug t, blue/w - for speed sensor
w, r/y - to (6.) ae86 engine harness "not ecu" g/w - for warning light
FC, g/r - to g/r circuit open relay, sits above where the ecu sits in the ae86
BATT, r/w - to (4.)ae86 ecu plug t r/w - battery +
+B, blk, split that goes every where - to (4.)ae86 ecu plug t
r/blk - main relay
(4.) coverd above 3 wires go to (3.) ae111 ecu plug 3 , 22 pin conector, one goes to (2.) ae111 ecu plug 2. the rest are not used. you only need one main relay wire, so one is not used, and 2 wires are for the afm - not needed
i have a question about THA inlet air temp, where does it go? my car does run fine without this hooked up.
2 wires are for the afm - not needed
the ground i think i run to ae111 ecu plug 2 just for safety
as for (5.) ae86 fire wall harness
blk/orange - to ae111 coil, and to the blk/w on the igniter that goes to a split-where it meets all four injector positive wires. there will be a sixth wire you can run back to where the blk/orange meets the coil.
blk/ red dots - to ae11 igniter...whatch out there is 2blk/red dots
blk/w - to (3.)ae111 ecu plug 3 sta, splt to starter signal... already covered above
y/g - to coolant temp sensor
a/c wires you shouldn't have cut unless removing a/c
this is (6.) not ecu, most of them are for the wipers/washer 5 wires in total. and 5 are for afm - one is g/r that go to curciut open relay,
anouther way to look at it
ae86 color on ae86 purpose on ae111 ae111 color
y-blk fire wall oil pres. oil pres. sender - y-blk
use ae86 sender
y-g fire wall colant temp. coolant temp sender - y-g
side of termostat hosing
blk-w fire wall starter starter, split to ecu 3 - blk-w
blk-r fire wall igniter igniter - blk
blk-orange fire wall coil/igniter coil - blk-w
brown ecu plug t ground ecu plug 2 brown
red-blk ecu plug t +B ecu plug 3 blk
red-w ecu plug t battery + ecu plug 3 red-w
blue-w ecu plug t speed sensor ecu plug 3 purple-w
g-w not ecu plug warning light ecu plug 3 red-yellow
g-r circuit open relay COR ecu plug 3 g-r
Please let me know if i mest up anywhere, my car fired right up with this set up. and has run for 20 thousand miles as of 2/08.. and sold the car with no problem had
if i have any more information i'll revise this post, good luck.
i added a diagram and 2 pics of some of the notes i took... i spent as much time reaserching and figureing this out as i did on the rest of the swap. i haave 5 more pages of notes, but there contents are in this post. ecu pin outs for the ae86 are in the tech referance section of this club
first pic is ae86 harness with plugs labled and out of the car
pic 2 is after removing the wiring loom and taping to keep it neet
3rd pic is fitting ae111 harness and conecting whats needed in a rough splice.
4th again inside in a rough splice, got it runing this way then shortend everything and cleaned it all up
5th is ae86 plug T, this is the plug that you do most of the splicing form
6th and 7th are pics of putting the ae86 mounting brackets on the ae111. you have to modify the top bracket because the ae111 ecu is taller
8th is the finished ecu
9th this is about the extent of the wiring you can see in the engine bay. notice the diagnistics box in the far left corner of the engine bay by the wiper motor. i found the mounting bracket for the coil and igniter off a 92 toyota pic up or something.
and yes i have heat... but thats anouther wright up all together
10th pic is what i had left over, ae111 on the right, ae86 on the left
DONT BELIEVE THE BLACK MARKS THAT AT THE TOP SAY'S THEY MEEN DONT NEED, THE POST IS CORRECT NOT THE NOTES, you dont need are afm ones and the pink wire, YOU NEED THE WIRES FORM THE BODY HARNESS PLUG, exept one of the ac wires and the blk/red dots that goes to the vacume switch
AGAIN: THE POST IS CORRECT NOT THE NOTES
best of luck
Modified by nixeighty6 at 5:34 AM 7/18/2008