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oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

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Quote, originally posted by te51levin;344910 »
If you're open to suggestions, it wouldn't hurt at all to put some vertical walls on your new crossmember. As it stands, it's basically a flat plate with little resistance to bending.

If you shape and weld some vertical panels to weld along the edges, the new part will form a channel shape similar to the way the OEM crossmember is formed. The part will be much stiffer, which will also make it stronger, quieter, safer, and less likely to impart stress to the mounting points on the floor of the car.

Also, since you have the opportunity to use four mounting points on the chassis, I'm assuming your new crossmember will use them all rather than the two that the T50 mounted to...correct?

Knowing the way you work, I'm not telling you anything you don't already know. This has probably already been done and I imagine I am just talking to myself at this point...

Quote, originally posted by Microwave;344913 »
I was thinking the same thing till I read this, looks like he's got it all planned out.

Quote, originally posted by oldeskewltoy »
Once the crossmember has been sized, gusset supports will be added to reinforce the plate.

:thumbsup:

Hmmmmm, I think we can make a game of this.... anyone up for trying???

Here is the floor and the mount. The mount has been drawn out, the cross on each side is the main hole used by the T50(that is the 13" measurement), the scribed arc is the distance each 2nd hole is from the first, the 2nd hole is somewhere along those arcs.

WHERE should the gusset's be?


Here is a photo of just the support so you can show me, and the rest of us, where you think the best place to support the brace should be.



Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

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Quote, originally posted by "from another forum" »
I don't think you need anything more than what you already have there! How much weight is this mount really going to need hold overall? The back end of the trans and some of the drive-shaft weight really is not that much. 1/8" plate should be fine imo.

It isn't 1/8", it is 12 gauge... or closer to 1/10"... David did have his friend do those bends(multi-ton bending brake)... and his friend also concurred... it likely doesn't need additional support

Quote, originally posted by "same person from another forum" »

If anything, you could add some contoured gussets welded like so..But I don't think you will need them.

David doesn't think I need gussets either........ :eek: He said bolt it in... and if it would make me feel more comfortable, he said use hefty oversize washers


My idea of support... aero dude





Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

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Well.... it took me forever... but The J160 is now test fitted (no clutch inside the bell housing). Being early summer, many of my helpers are busy, and so I had to figure this one out for myself.

The first thing I had to do was find a lifting point* that is steady.... there isn't one on the bottom of the J160, the LEEN adapter, although flat, is too far forward of the balance point, so I had to improvise.........

* - normally this isn't an issue when I'm using a T50, the T50 is just light enough for me to man handle in and out, well the J160 is another 25#s, just too heavy for me to man handle


Borrowing from my early fabrication (fuel and wiring location) I again used a bit of wood

besides the pieces on the jack, if you are sharp eyed you'll see the spine of the transmission nestles into the top block of wood. Using some of my old woodworking tools, I cut, and shaped a 2x4 block so that it fit the transmission case casting.


With a somewhat steady lifting point, I raise the transmission into place....

you can just barely see the wood supporting it all at the edge of the photo. I run a couple of engine/trans bolts in, and snug them down.

I look to see if all of my measurements, and fabrication of the body look good....

here the shifter cup just clears the cross member


Here the radius-ed chassis, and selector rod clearance


It all looks good... VERY good actually

So the mounting holes are determined...., drilled, adjusted a bit for accuracy....

A few views of a LEEN J160 neatly nestled into the transmission tunnel of an AE71



I DO plan on reinforcing this... my idea for this is welding a metal spine along each side of the plate - along the line I drawn. Note that the spine will join the drop and support it as well. Also note the dark triangle shaped marker area on the right side... that will be material removed so the speedo cable has clearance.


Quote, originally posted by oldeskewltoy;344555 »

For those who "see"....


MUCH more to come........


That's enough for today, I"ll remove the mount tomorrow, bring it to David for finalizing, and reinforcing.

I'll also have to remove the transmission and get the new clutch in there.... so more to come



Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

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So... now that there is a new transmission, we need a driveshaft. A few months back XNC (Johnny) hooked me up with a front half of a W5x driveshaft from a Supra.

I hadn't noticed @ that time the fact that the front section are the same length.

Before I installed the 2 transmissions, I performed one "test" that I was not able to photograph.

Having both transmission sitting on their bell housings... I slipped the driveshaft from the W5 into the J160, and I slipped the T50 driveshaft into the T50. Using my tape measure to measure from the edge of the starter(remember both have the same bell) back to the flange where the 2 driveshafts bolt together.....

The difference......... all of 3/8"

The J160 + Supra front shaft = 3/8" longer then the T50 + T50 shaft.... so I brought both up to this place - http://www.sixstates.com/products/products.jsp and they will shorten the Supra shaft 3/8", add a new carrier bearing*, and balance the whole assembly


* - https://www.powertrainindustri...ports part number 2380-40

It should be ready either Friday(6/29), or Monday(7/2)....

more to come



Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

dr.occa




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2382 posts [93%]
The Lonestar State

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This is a great step forward Dan I almost forgot about this project.



86 Garage Magazine
"Strictly All Things 86"
oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

 Re: (dr.occa) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by dr.occa »
This is a great step forward Dan I almost forgot about this project.


Thanks......

and now a bit closer...

Here is the finished cross member.... the welding is only fair in appearance, but there is plenty of penetration. You can kinda get the idea of the shape, and the reinforcement





Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

UltimX


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496 posts [98%]
ba ca

 Re: (oldeskewltoy) » Reply  Edit


Looks like they are only fair condition, welding 100% on all the gussets would help a little more for strength. I see on the right / he didn't weld the left of it on the back side
oldeskewltoy




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13133 posts [99%]
Portland

 Re: (UltimX) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by UltimX »
Looks like they are only fair condition, welding 100% on all the gussets would help a little more for strength. I see on the right / he didn't weld the left of it on the back side

There is a full bead along the cradle, or inside (not shown) of the mount.

I agree... it could be far better looking... but it is more than strong enough.



Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

oldeskewltoy




Offline

13133 posts [99%]
Portland

 Re: (oldeskewltoy) » Reply  Edit








Information is POWER... learn the facts!!

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ USE it!

I've been wrong before... and at somepoint in time, I'll be wrong again

Angry4AG




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425 posts [96%]
Bronx NY/Okinawa JP/And now in Las Vegas NV

 Re: (oldeskewltoy) » Reply  Edit


Looks like you are in a massive traffic jam enjoying stop and go madnss

Awesome build as always OST

Hope i can see this one in person one day at least see it in 3D rather than a sad 2D

Any thoughts on water injection? I know you are always looking for the ultimate in power and fuel efficiency . Recently, i was looking at this build and was thinking that water inj might give this thing some extra pep. Or do you want to keep it staright foward on the tuning side?

Either way good stuff!





http://www.sdsefi.com/features/jan064ag.htm

Red




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9661 posts [78%]

 Re: (Angry4AG) » Reply  Edit


Water injection works, but it works because there is tremendous energy released when the water flashes into steam, effectively boosting cylinder pressure. Unfortunately live steam is also a great way to degrease things and it scrubs the lubrication off your cylinder walls, creating a lot of extra engine wear.

Wet nitrous probably would be a better way to get a hot shot. But if you are concerned with things like fuel efficiency, that means "all the time" not a shot, and using water injection all the time will just wear out your engine sooner.



--Original owner, '85 Corolla GTS. Will trade for a Cadillac-Gage V150, or a Ford GT, in similar condition.
Angry4AG




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425 posts [96%]
Bronx NY/Okinawa JP/And now in Las Vegas NV

 Re: (Red) » Reply  Edit


Very true.

I was mostly thinking for full throttle runs giving the ability for a more aggresive tune (maybe a 50/meth 50/water mix).

And for the driveability no shot. Just the benefit of the steam cleaned chambers which will keep the car driving "like new" for a long time.

I know there is the potential for wear but in short high power intervals as long as the mixture is properly atomized im thinking he would be ok. But its just a thought.

I have tuned about 8 cars with either the AEM unit or the snow performance unit. Since then i have a soft spot for these units due to what i was able to do on a dyno with just water or a meth mix.





http://www.sdsefi.com/features/jan064ag.htm

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