onelungderryl
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2642 posts [87%]
American Canyon CA
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| Re: The 7age thread? Info wanted (orangekid) » | 9:55 AM 3/28/2007 |
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I know theres one somewhere on aeu86.org. I'm probably going to do one too, they are supposed to pass smog legally. But I guess you need to extend the waterpump pipe (the one that goes to the elbow), exhaust manfoild and intake are a half of a inch higher, you have to use a sr5 6 bolt flywheel, I forgot what else...
blog -> http://onelungderryl.blogspot.com/
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orangekid
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3249 posts [87%]
please, no pictures...
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I've seen that one. Lets post the links that we have. I'm trying to find out as much as I can.http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20a...A.htm http://www.aeu86.org/index/eng...60902 same as above, but in forum form:
http://www.aeu86.org/forum/vie...=7age http://whyturbothat.com/mr2main.html http://garagedori.com/forum/vi...ee84e Small section here:
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages...#7AGE http://te51levin.superjamie.net/ some stuff here:
http://forums.toymods.org.au/i...67582 belts:
http://www.dzbelt.com/?lang=en Other input is welcome!
Modified by orangekid at 10:28 AM 2/1/2009
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Peter Moller
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253 posts [100%]
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I´m building one this moment. It has taken forever, but i´m taking my time searching for parts.
I´m a cheap bastard :-)Anyway....
7AFE bottom end(balanced and lightened)
Illegal garage 212mm clutch
4AFE flywheel
TOGA racebearings
TOGA high volume oil pump
Redtop pistons (81.5mm)
Redtop head(skimmed and flowed)
258degr Schrick cams
Fidanza Camgear
Fensport exhaust branch
R1 Wurks pulley kit
Porsche 944 cambelt(NOT for countershaft engine)
7AFE head bolts
4AGE headgasket Bottom end is done, head is coming on sometime next week. Any questions, feel free to ask 
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Piloter
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15 posts [100%]
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I've got a build thread up at Toyota Nation, http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t98590.html . It's long as hell, but possibly helpful.
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GQ86NYC
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42 posts [99%]
Orlando FL
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what did the 7a cost u, and were did u score the oilpump???? oh and can u use a sr5 tranny as is, no gts bell housing???
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GQ86NYC
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42 posts [99%]
Orlando FL
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ALso if any one needs it, i have compiled all the 7age build up info into 1 file, hit me up and ill email it to u. also have diy engine porting. helpful
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Piloter
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15 posts [100%]
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Cost: A bunch. (About 5K, I think, when it was all said and done...of course that was also having it rebuilt as a zero-mile engine and given performance parts and treatment.)
Oil pump, I think he just cleaned up and used the 7A one. The 4AG had a higher oil capacity due to the oil cooler, but I think we found out that the 7AFE has a higher operating oil pressure so the pump was a little bigger.
Transmission: If it bolts up to an A-series motor, it'll still bolt up to an A-series hybrid motor. I'll be dropping it into an AE102 with an auto, so I can't help with the C52/E52 stuff.Also I'd appreciate a copy of the info file -- piloter (at) gmail (dot) com.
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GQ86NYC
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42 posts [99%]
Orlando FL
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I red ur thread months ago, it was super helpful. all my stuff is just thing i read and saved cus there was a torque spec or a power reade or something i thought i mite need to remember later. r u using any aftermarket ECU???? or r u still stock. also. every one should knw that this is a very very good motor build up. o. something else i figured out with playing around. honda b18 pistons and rods. same bore and the rods are off by less the a mm. the big eng as to be resized cus its 19mm and the 7a is 21. but other than that. b18 rods and piston stock or aftermarket r really good price and strength wise. also something to look into. b18 intake mani. im still playin with the flag cut. but it breaths alot better.
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Piloter
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15 posts [100%]
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I don't have any dyno figures...it's not in the car yet. I plan on going with Megasquirt as a fuel/spark controller and letting the stock ECU handle the transmission, but that's mostly because I want to wring every bit of power out of this thing and because I'll be running ITBs and probably forced induction.Yeah, the B16/B18 heads have the same port spacing (size and centerline) as the 4AGE heads...but the bolt locations are different. Hence you can make turbo manifolds out of those nice equal-length B18 pieces, you just need a 4AG flange from somewhere like JGStools.com .
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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One thing to the oil pump is that it could be that the 7a oil pump is somewhat bigger, I need to look at that myself, but one thing to using the 4ag oil pump is that it can handle the higher rev. I've read and worked on a couple of ls-vtec and the better way to build that engine is to use the b18c oil pump instead of the b18b(a) due to the higher rev of the engine on the b18c. So with that in mind, I wonder if it would be a lot better to use the 4ag oil pump.
"AE Squad'
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GQ86NYC
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42 posts [99%]
Orlando FL
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If the 7a stock revs to about 7. if u up to 8. i herd of toda makin a oil pump thats kick ass. for every 1000 rpm u raise the engine its suppose to be 10 psi of oil pressure u should increase to help.
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oriracer
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11 posts [100%]
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Don't do it !!! its not worth the hassle do a 3s instead much more power and a better engine to start with for upgrading.I can show the holes in the bottom end of mine, its not worth it trust me. but if you are hell bent on building one. pay no attention to this guy he has no clue how to build a 7age. http://garagedori.com/forum/vi...ee84e This guy does have a clue. http://te51levin.superjamie.net/ This is how I built mine: small pot 4age + 7afe from the 4age you need the following the head, water pump & and the rest of the 4a cooling system thermo housing etc, power steering pump you will
have to rebuild your own pipe work. pistons !!, crank pully,
from the 7a you need the following:
con-rods, crank, flywheel, block, all the oil sump
There is a lot more but I can be arsed typing any more I may update will more info soon 
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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Depends on how you build it and how you take care of it. te51levin seems to have done it the right way because his is still running in perfect condition. Any motor will give at anytime.
"AE Squad'
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fast import
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50 posts [100%]
San Antonio Texas
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| Re: The 7age thread? Info wanted (orangekid) » | 9:36 PM 10/16/2007 |
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It's late.......
I thought I read '7MG'.
So, never mind :-)
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te51levin
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811 posts [100%]
Pacific NW
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| Quote, originally posted by ae82hybrid » | | Depends on how you build it and how you take care of it. te51levin seems to have done it the right way because his is still running in perfect condition. Any motor will give at anytime. |
Thanks man. Build a 7AGE carefully and correctly and it will not let you down. Mine has been running for over three years and has never given any indication of mechanical trouble. I just did a quick search for '7AGE' and found seven threads, and five of them were mostly rumors and lies. There are a few things that people need to know if they are going to attempt this build:1) The block MUST be from a 7AFE to clear the long stroke crank and longer rods. 2) The crank MUST be from a 7AFE. That's how you get the long stroke and thus the increased displacement. 3) The stock 7AFE rods looks spindly, but if they are in good shape, they are safe to at least 7500 RPM. 4) Ignore the input of people who have never built, owned, or driven a 7AGE. Many of them will tell you things like "there aren't enough flywheel bolts" or "the crank isn't forged" or "it will make torque but it won't rev out" or "My neighbor works at Toyota and he said it won't be any good". Most of these people have no idea what they are talking about and are just repeating what they've heard others say. 5) You must use the 7AFE oil pump and timing belt tensioner. This is due to the fact that the Porsche timing belt is a tooth or two longer than necessary, and the 4AGE parts do not have sufficient reach to maintain tension. 6) You really should use pistons that match the head. If you use a 16V head, use 16V 4AGE (or 4AGZE) pistons. If you use a 20V head, use 20V pistons. Using the 7AFE pistons is cheating yourself out of compression and performance, and they are probably not built to withstand the RPM and stress that 4AGE pistons are built to take. 7) The 7AFE block puts the piston crown about 0.6mm below the deck surface at TDC. In a 7AFE this is compensated for by the thin (0.6mm) 7AFE head gasket. If you use a standard 4AGE (1.2mm) head gasket, you will not have as much compression as you might otherwise anticipate based on the increased displacement. 8) You will need to learn how to calculate compression ratios if you are to know what your CR is going to be. Pistons alone do not dictate CR. 9) You WILL need adjustable cam gears to make best power. The geometry of the 7A bottom end means that the cams are not where they would be with the 4A block. To correct that you will need adjustable gears. In fact you'll probably need them to make it run clean enough to smog it, but cover them with the stock timing cover before you take it in for a smog check. 10) 7AGEs look stock enough to get by a smog tech, so long as all the smog equipment is in place and functional and your car does not make him get too nosy. 11) A properly built 7AGE is pretty fast and uses cheap, easily available parts - no waiting for exotic, weirdo 20V stuff from Japan when it breaks. 12) The end 
Modified by te51levin at 6:49 AM 12/29/2007
Visit SV3Power.com for 4AGE and MR2 exhaust components.New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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I've just finished my 7age, so far I've put on 30 mile on it. Very impressed with the final outcome even though its running open header.
"AE Squad'
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te51levin
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811 posts [100%]
Pacific NW
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| Quote, originally posted by ae82hybrid » | | I've just finished my 7age, so far I've put on 30 mile on it. Very impressed with the final outcome even though its running open header. |
Aren't you the guy who's been emailing me at work about your build? Get that header finished and let's see some pics/video!
Visit SV3Power.com for 4AGE and MR2 exhaust components.New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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Thats my bro, we worked together on this build.
"AE Squad'
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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Just put a little over 1k on it.
"AE Squad'
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te51levin
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811 posts [100%]
Pacific NW
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No problems so far? Any pics, vids, stories?
Visit SV3Power.com for 4AGE and MR2 exhaust components.New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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The engine has a leak somewhere around the oil dip stick area, it got onto the alternator and sprayed upwards to where I mounted the igniter on the passenger side strut tower and window wiper motor. I've replaced the o-ring that is on the oil dip for the first time when I spotted the oil leak thinking that it was the o-ring. After replacing the o-ring it was fine for a week then it did it again but this time I think that the engine is getting too much crankcase or something. It seems that theres so much crankcase that the pressure is pushing the dip stick out and that's probably why the oil sprayed up that high to wet those areas. It only happens when you give it some gas and take it up the rpm's, with regular driving it doesn't leak. For now I'm not sure on what is the real problem, I'm going to try to take a look at it this weekend that's if it doesn't rain and doesn't get too cold to go under the car. Still compiling on a write-up so hopefully that will get done soon so I can get that posted up along with the pics that we took. Once the engine hits the 1500mile mark and change the oil out again Ill try to get a in car vid of the acceleration and an out of car vid.
"AE Squad'
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te51levin
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811 posts [100%]
Pacific NW
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I wonder if the dipstick itself is just so old and worn that it doesn't want to seal to the tube...? If it doesn't stick firmly into the tube, it should probably be replaced.1500 miles...bahh...you have 1000 miles on it now. You're ready. I was beating on mine at 500 miles and it's plenty happy 
Visit SV3Power.com for 4AGE and MR2 exhaust components.New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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I dont think that I have too much oil in there because the 7af calls for something like 3 9/10 qts of oil and Im using about 3 3/4 which Ive been using for the 4ag.But once I change out the oil I open it up to see how it really is.
"AE Squad'
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Bowtie_65
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60 posts [100%]
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are ya'll so happy that it was worth doing or would ya'll have rathered doing something eles? I've beent thinking hard about doing this, maybe even stripping a mr2 of it's super charger.
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te51levin
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811 posts [100%]
Pacific NW
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| Quote, originally posted by Bowtie_65 » | | are ya'll so happy that it was worth doing or would ya'll have rathered doing something eles? I've beent thinking hard about doing this, maybe even stripping a mr2 of it's super charger. |
I'm not sure I understand the question exactly. I'm happy with mine, and would do it again, though if I'd have known it would be this much fun I'd have used aftermarket rods and built more compression into it (we have E85 here) for some real fun. An SC12 (supercharger from an MR2) is barely big enough for a stock 4AGE. I wouldn't mess with it on a 7AGE.
Visit SV3Power.com for 4AGE and MR2 exhaust components.New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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bowtie_65: Im happy with the results and I would do it again no doubt about it.te51levin: agreed...if that group buy of those h-beam 7a rods came up sooner I would've jumped on those for my build.
"AE Squad'
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Bowtie_65
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60 posts [100%]
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is there room for a pilot bearing? r u using one?
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Bowtie_65
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60 posts [100%]
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do they share the same crank pulleys?
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ae82hybrid
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1883 posts [100%]
Akuma Island
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the 4ag for our fwd doesn't use a pilot bearing nor does the 7af, I dont know if there is enough room for a pilot bearing to go on the 7af crank, you will have to ask the guys who did the 7ag onto their ae86. They dont share the same crank pulley, the outter row for the 7af is way bigger than the inner row.
"AE Squad'
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