New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95

Maybe it's not be applicable in an MR2 cooling system, depending on how the coolant system is configured in that car? (I'm not certain of this) It's the metal tube that runs vertically from the housing where the upper radiator hose feeds into on the head, (& the coolant sensor(s) are mounted) down to the housing for the thermostat directly behind the water pump. It has an o-ring on both sides where it meets either housing.

I was running a metal tube that had been cut & extended with a hose as orangekid suggested, but it has leaked occasionally & I wasn't sure if there was a coolant setup I could piece together or modify (maybe different housings or a metal coolant tube from a different engine) that would remedy this.

Rather than try to clamp a rubber hose to a steel pipe with no bead, I would consider extending that pipe by 15mm or so. IIRC the pipe sits on an angle and you would have to weld the extension in with that in mind - i.e. you'd want to cut the pipe in half, then insert each half in its home and cut/fit a piece to go between, rather than just adding a straight piece on the bench.

New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95

At this point, your suggestion looks like my best option. Is it worth the extra trouble, you think, to find a tube/pipe just slightly larger than the diameter of the bypass tube to fit the two halves into and weld the three pieces together from the overlap where the extension tube/pipe would hypothetically be? Not sure, but I'm thinking this might minimize the chances of creating any obstructions inside the tube caused by welds/welding.

Thanks.

That bypass pipe does not need to slow a huge amount of water, and certainly not any specific figure. Flow must simply be "adequate".

Use any convenient steel tubing that is similar in size to the existing pieces, and from it, cut a patch piece to go between the ends. If the person doing the work is reasonably careful (i.e. not an absolute chimp) they will not fill the repair with junk. The tubing is also thin-walled enough that brazing is a viable option.

Find a friend, co-worker , or sympathetic local shop who can do careful work at a reasonable price and it'll be just fine. If they are skilled and experienced, they will know several appropriate ways to perform the task without worrying it to death.

New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95

Everything fits nicely except for the BT AC bracket because the tensioner of the BT AC bracket hits the 7AFE oilpan. any ideas? I don't want to use 7AFE accessories, I really would rather just slap on my old BT accessories onto the 7AFE block. Makes my life so much easier.

te51levin, I think you were right about me over analyzing a problem that didn't exist. I can't weld, or find anybody reliable in my immediate area to weld for me, so I used orangekid's method for the time being and so far it has held up fine unlike my previous attempt to cut & extend the bypass pipe.

Two weeks and counting so far. Orangekid and te51levin, thank you for your help.

te51levin, all your 7age information & input has definitely helped me with my 7age build, and maintenance, this past year.

Flywheel/Clutch set up- Do they make after light weight Flywheels/ clutch set ups, for this engine, or any compatible ones from a differt car? Is a light weight flywheel a good option?

Heads- I have two of them. I have a regular Blue top head, and i have a JDM Red top head. I have matching pistons from the Blue top 4age; what would happen if i used the Red top, with blue top pistons for the 7age?

ARP Head Bolts- Won't ARP Head bolts of a 4age work for the 7AGE? Even though the block hight has changed the height the from the head to the block hasn't, so wouldn't the ARP 4age head bolts work for the 7age?

Those are pretty much the only questions i have so far for this build. Thanks guys for the input.

there are a few lightweight flywheels available for 7af/4af. It depends on who you ask but i think its a good mod for n/a 7ag

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Heads- I have two of them. I have a regular Blue top head, and i have a JDM Red top head. I have matching pistons from the Blue top 4 age; what would happen if i used the Red top, with blue top pistons for the 7 age?

Use small port head. Blue top pistons have 18mm wrist pins and 7afe rods have 20mm wrist pins so they won't fit.

Quote

ARP Head Bolts- Won't ARP Head bolts of a 4 age work for the 7 AGE? Even though the block hight has changed the height the from the head to the block hasn't, so wouldn't the ARP 4 age head bolts work for the 7 age? Those are pretty much the only questions i have so far for this build. Thanks guys for the input.

Yes they should fit but they are not necessary. We broke 3 sets of 4age flywheel bolts on one of our 7age 20v , currently replacing last set with ARP flywheel bolts.

A$s¤ho£€ since 1986.

The only thing in life worse than being talked about is not being talked about

my site
http://budgetracer.webs.com

"there are a few lightweight flywheels available for 7af/4af. It depends on who you ask but i think its a good mod for n/a 7ag"

Do you have any websites or brands that you guys have chosen for your 7ag's?

"Use small port head. Blue top pistons have 18mm wrist pins and 7afe rods have 20mm wrist pins so they won't fit."

Do you have any recommendations for pistons to go with a red top hi comp head?

"currently replacing last set with ARP flywheel bolts."

Do you have a part # for the ARP Flywheel bolts you guys are going to be using? Also what about the Con rod cap bolts, i've read that you can get ARP ones for those as well?

Also looking for some aftermarket con rods. I read Argo makes them but they run for $1050 for the set. Any other manufacture out there like Crower make replacement rods that have the same specs, but a cheaper price as the original 7afe?

My project is going to be 16v head i'm probably going to be using the blue top cuz i have the matching manifold for my carbs, webber side drafts, I'll probably shave the head and block some to raise the compression to compensate. This project is going to be a N/A, I'm not planing on boosting, and i'm not planning on building hi rev engine, nor a crazy horse power one. I don't need to worry about smog, cuz i live in FL. I just want a strong well built engine.

Thanks a lot of the info.

Danny

Use the 4AGE ones and end up wih two spares.
part # 203-2802

I do run the ARGO ones myself but we got them on a special deal.
They have been fine even at big hp,
but there are other options,
like
http://www.spoolimports.com/co...S.asp
http://www.belfabracing.com/
etc.

Matt

Thanks for that info man, that really helped me out. I'm probably going to go with Belfab, if they're out of stock, i'll go with Spool. Either way you go, you'll end up with a better product than the stock tooth pic con rods.

Thanks

Danny

I'm on my phone now so can't really search right now but good quality flywheels aren't hard to find.

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Do you have any recommendations for pistons to go with a red top hi comp head?

High comp (small port pistons) will give you a nice c/r .

Quote

Do you have a part # for the ARP Flywheel bolts you guys are going to be using? Also what about the Con rod cap bolts, i've read that you can get ARP ones for those as well?

Again don't have part number now but we got arp flywheel bolts for the 4age. 8 bolts, you will have 2 spares. We have had zero rod bolt problems in the past 5 years on neither of or 7age 20v. Stock rods and bolts on 75 shot nitrous.

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Also looking for some aftermarket con rods. I read Argo makes them but they run for $1050 for the set. Any other manufacture out there like Crower make replacement rods that have the same specs, but a cheaper price as the original 7 afe?

Have been on stock rods for 5 years. IMO unless you gonna run some serious boost then stock rods will be just fine. Save the $ for something else.

Quote

My project is going to be 16 v head i'm probably going to be using the blue top cuz i have the matching manifold for my carbs, webber side drafts, I'll probably shave the head and block some to raise the compression to compensate. This project is going to be a N/A, I'm not planing on boosting, and i'm not planning on building hi rev engine, nor a crazy horse power one. I don't need to worry about smog, cuz i live in FL. I just want a strong well built engine. Thanks a lot of the info. Danny

Bluetop and redtop have identical combustion chambers. Before you go about shaving head or block, you can always try a 7afe head gasket its almost half a mm thinner than 4age. Will give you a nice bump in c/r.

A$s¤ho£€ since 1986.

The only thing in life worse than being talked about is not being talked about

my site
http://budgetracer.webs.com

You won't be sorry....

Has anyone done a carb'd 7AGE? Because I'm converting from a 4AC so mine is two builds in one!!!

A$s¤ho£€ since 1986.

The only thing in life worse than being talked about is not being talked about

my site
http://budgetracer.webs.com

But anyways, I'm sure i'll have questions about the cooling system. I can't think of any reason I couldn't reuse my 4AC water pump, i'll mock it up Tuesday and see. The 4age head I have has a smaller water neck at the front of the head than a 4AC and I thought all 4A's had the same size, just different shaped necks for FWD RWD SR5 GTS. I reckon I just need to have everything in front of me.

http://www.speed-industries.ch/wordpress/?p=3213

Check it out, any comments on the topic are appreciated! I hope it's enought first hand information, how he did it to achieve the result!

Cheers!

Oh and I stripped the motor down to just a short block.

And once I got the head off, I can see why you wouldn't want to use the 7AFE pistons! Talk about a deep dish, that's crazy low compression with a 4AGE head!

Quote, originally posted by Eric’sFreeAE86 »

Here's my donor motor. The 4AC water pump does bolt right up to it. Any suggestions for the stubborn crank bolt? I don't have an impact handy.

New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95

What about bolting up to a T50? I laid the 7AFE back plate on my bellhousing and only the top two bolts line up. Everything else was off. Do the bottom two big bolts not go through the back plate?

New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95

New for September: dual pattern 16V/20V 4AG header flange. Introductory price $27.95

Cylinder walls look good, all still show crosshatching. I'll get some more pics when I get the pans off and look up her skirt.

A real good sign, despite the high mileage, is the pistons are still full of oil. That tells me the walls and rings are sealing well enough that no oil is seeping through.