Tools needed:
-Seal Remover tool. I use Cornwell Tool #PU-206. It's $23.
-Two 12mm wrenches
-Piece of pipe the size of the pinion seal
-Ruler that measures in Millimeters
-24mm socket for pinion nut
-Flat head screw driver or punch (something to unstake a nut with)
-Big Phucking Hammer or Wimpy @ss Mallet (varies on personal preference)
-Pry bar
-White-Out or Paint marker (something that will show up well on metal)
-Impact gun and air compressor (highly recommended but not needed)
-6-pack of favorite beer or 1 can Lemon-Lime 4LOKO

Toyota Pinion Seal for 6.7" GTS 3rd Member
Toyota Part Number #90311-38015

Start by removing the 12mm bolts/nuts holding the driveshaft to the pinion flange...

Then grab your pry bar and remove the driveshaft from the flange...

Grab some rope or in this case a shop rag, and tie up the driveshaft so that it is supported. You don't want the driveshaft to just hang there un-supported. It's bad on the center support bearing if you still have the OEM two-piece driveshaft. No need breaking more stuff on your corolla, so tie that sh!t up.

IMPORTANT PART!!!!

With the driveshaft removed, you can now see the pinion nut. Use your marker pen and make a reference mark on the pinion and the pinion nut. You will need to use this later to set the pinion preload. If you forget to do this you will be screwed and will have to take the whole diff apart and do it the lame way. Don't forget!

With the pinion location marked, unstake the nut with your screw driver and Big Phucking Hammer, then take your 24mm socket and impact gun and take the pinion nut off.

Remove the washer...

A couple of light hammer taps and the pinion flange will come off along with some diff fluid. Have a drain pan ready to catch any falling oil unless you wanna BP disaster on your hands...

Pinion seal visable...

Take your puller and your hammer and tap the old seal out. Sometimes they are stuck in there good, don't be shy.

With the old seal out, you can now see the oil slinger that sits behind the pinion bearing. It is possible to take the pinion bearing out at this point. Make sure that the bearing and the slinger are well seated into the bearing race. Push on them with your fingers and make sure the bearing is in the race straight and is not sitting in the race crooked.

Begin to install your new seal. TAKE YOUR TIME USING LIGHT TAPS! Use your piece of pipe to make the installation go smoother. The pipe should be the same diameter as the METAL PORTION of the pinion seal, so when you tap the seal in with the pipe the pipe SHOULD NOT be crushing any portion of rubber on the seal. Use light taps and evenly drive the seal in.

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!

The seal DOES NOT sit flush with the lip of the 3rd member housing, this picture below is of the seal just barely in the housing, it needs to go in much deeper. It actually sits 4mm deep into the housing. Now is when you take your ruler and measure the piece of pipe that you used to drive the seal in. You can take your marker and make a ring that is 4mm from the end of the pipe to make things even easier. With the ring marked on you pipe, you then simply drive the seal in until your 4mm marker ring is level with the lip of the 3rd member housing, at that point you are 4mm deep into the housing. Check again that your seal is evenly pushed into the housing and not crooked.

Begin to re-assemble the rear end again. Slide the pinion flange back on to the pinion and give it a few light taps to ensure that it is in all the way. Install the washer and the pinion nut.

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!

Contrary to what any mechanic friend has told you, the pinion nut DOES NOT have a torque spec that you tighten it down to with a click-type torque wrench. The pinion nut is tightened down and pinion bearings squeezed together until when spun they measure 13in/lbs of resistance (new bearings w/ axles out). This is where your reference mark you made on the pinion and pinion nut comes into play. When installing the pinion nut, tighten the nut down until your reference marks line back up to the exact spot they were before. Over-tightening past the mark or too loose before the mark and you run the risk of damaging the pinion bearings and with time damaging the ring and pinion. So tighten the nut until the marks line up, no more no less. Please feel free to re-read that because it is the most important step of this DIY article.

Pinion nut tight, re-install the driveshaft. Open beer.

<br /><br />
Modified by HASportAE86 at 11:34 AM 1/5/2011

Modified by HASportAE86 at 11:37 AM 1/5/2011

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Honda Master Technician/ASE Master Technician

Did it start to leak after using a power washer on/near it?
Thanks.

-The stake: This is why I recommended using an impact, but if you don't have one a chisel and hammer will un-stake it. The pinion nut is not on there very tight, I'm sure applying the E-brake would suffice to break it loose once unstaked. I wouldn't take a drill to the pinion nut in the off chance you end up damaging the pinion threads.

-The threads: Did not need to be cleaned up. I'm not too sure where you're going with this, please explain. They weren't cross-threaded and the pinion threads are never really exposed to the elements.

Please elaborate on some of these questions....

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Oops, sorry, you're absolutely right - this thing isn't shimmed but is reusing a pre-crushed crush sleeve.

Modified by allencr at 7:33 PM 6/25/2009

*palm to face*

.....to keep this topic moving, yes....unstake the nut. I don't want 3 pages of debate on whether or not to unstake a soft metal nut.

However, the nut should only be tightened to the point where you marked it though. This is pinion preload and you can OVERTIGHTEN it. There is no torque spec for that nut, you tighten it until there is 4.3-6.9 INCH POUNDS of resistance when measured. Overtightening the nut will further crush the one-time use only crush sleeve, driving the pinion bearings further into their races, and destroying the front pinion bearing.

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85 coupe.

DW

-Jon

Cheers... jondee86

PS: You are doing a great job with these writeups... bigs ups for making the effort

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

It was an aftermarket, replacement 2-piece driveshaft. Not sure where I got it, I picked it up like 4yrs ago now The car I did this on I no longer own but go to the track with it from time to time

Good tech write-ups keep the community alive and 86's on the road instead of in the junkyard

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That seal is usually in there pretty good, so don't be shy when it comes to tapping it out. Give it some medium strength taps and watch for it to slowly start coming out.

When putting the seal back in, give it light taps and take your time. Rushing the job can lead to the seal going in crooked and you getting screwed and then gotta go run out and order another seal. The metal portion of the seal DOES NOT sit flush with the housing, the seal actually sits 4mm deep into the 3rd member.

A good trick that I use is to take whatever piece of small length, large diameter tube you will being using to tap the seal in......make a ring with a marker or piece of tape 4mm from the bottom of the tube. This will serve as a stoping point when you are tapping the seal in. Simply keep tapping while looking at the reference mark you made on your tube. When the reference line is flush with the housing all the way around, you'll know that you are 4mm deep and even.

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but here is my question for u... how much free play should u have there.. seriously i can turn the driveshaft back and forth a quarter turn before getting any real resistance.. sound about right or horribly wrong?

Cost:
New Seal $8 (plus $7 shipping, online order)
Seal Puller $18 (Harbor Freight)
Plumbing pipe coupling $4 (2" diameter, Home Depot)
6 pack Heineken for my buddy to use his garage. $8

I'm glad I got this done. No more stinky oil leak! Thanks again for the great write up.

What happened to the original post?

The pinion has already been setup, so there is no need to generate the kind of
torque that is necessary to crush the crush tube. The tube is already the right
length. If the nut goes back on in exactly the same position it was before,
then the bearing preload will be correct, or at least the same as it was before.

Whatever torque you need to apply to the nut to get back to its previous position, is
the amount of torque you need. 40, 60, 80 ft-lbs, it is not important. The FSM shows
the technically correct way of doing things. But in the real world of fixing cars, there
are a lot of shortcuts that can save you time and money. This is one of them

Cheers... jondee86

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

Andrew

GTS rear ends are 6.7" ring gears
SR5's are 6.3"

The part you need is going to be NOT THE ONE I provided for the pinion seal, that one is for a GTS. Everything procedure wise is still the same.

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