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 DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CARFirst  1 2 >  Last
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HASportAE86
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Loma Linda CA

 DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR Reply  Edit


The following is how to remove the pinion seal of the rear diferential, on-car, without removing the 3rd member. The correct procedure for doing this is to totally remove and disassmeble the rear end, but this is a quick way to cheat the book and replace the seal in about 30 minutes or less. No b!tching like "well my friend's uncle's brother has been working on Fords for 20yrs and youre doing it wrong"....I don't care, have him fix your pinion then lol.

Tools needed:
-Seal Remover tool. I use Cornwell Tool #PU-206. It's $23.
-Two 12mm wrenches
-Piece of pipe the size of the pinion seal
-Ruler that measures in Millimeters
-24mm socket for pinion nut
-Flat head screw driver or punch (something to unstake a nut with)
-Big Phucking Hammer or Wimpy @ss Mallet (varies on personal preference)
-Pry bar
-White-Out or Paint marker (something that will show up well on metal)
-Impact gun and air compressor (highly recommended but not needed)
-6-pack of favorite beer or 1 can Lemon-Lime 4LOKO

Toyota Pinion Seal for 6.7" GTS 3rd Member
Toyota Part Number #90311-38015

Start by removing the 12mm bolts/nuts holding the driveshaft to the pinion flange...

Then grab your pry bar and remove the driveshaft from the flange...

Grab some rope or in this case a shop rag, and tie up the driveshaft so that it is supported. You don't want the driveshaft to just hang there un-supported. It's bad on the center support bearing if you still have the OEM two-piece driveshaft. No need breaking more stuff on your corolla, so tie that sh!t up.

IMPORTANT PART!!!!

With the driveshaft removed, you can now see the pinion nut. Use your marker pen and make a reference mark on the pinion and the pinion nut. You will need to use this later to set the pinion preload. If you forget to do this you will be screwed and will have to take the whole diff apart and do it the lame way. Don't forget!

With the pinion location marked, unstake the nut with your screw driver and Big Phucking Hammer, then take your 24mm socket and impact gun and take the pinion nut off.

Remove the washer...

A couple of light hammer taps and the pinion flange will come off along with some diff fluid. Have a drain pan ready to catch any falling oil unless you wanna BP disaster on your hands...

Pinion seal visable...

Take your puller and your hammer and tap the old seal out. Sometimes they are stuck in there good, don't be shy.

With the old seal out, you can now see the oil slinger that sits behind the pinion bearing. It is possible to take the pinion bearing out at this point. Make sure that the bearing and the slinger are well seated into the bearing race. Push on them with your fingers and make sure the bearing is in the race straight and is not sitting in the race crooked.


Begin to install your new seal. TAKE YOUR TIME USING LIGHT TAPS! Use your piece of pipe to make the installation go smoother. The pipe should be the same diameter as the METAL PORTION of the pinion seal, so when you tap the seal in with the pipe the pipe SHOULD NOT be crushing any portion of rubber on the seal. Use light taps and evenly drive the seal in.

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!

The seal DOES NOT sit flush with the lip of the 3rd member housing, this picture below is of the seal just barely in the housing, it needs to go in much deeper. It actually sits 4mm deep into the housing. Now is when you take your ruler and measure the piece of pipe that you used to drive the seal in. You can take your marker and make a ring that is 4mm from the end of the pipe to make things even easier. With the ring marked on you pipe, you then simply drive the seal in until your 4mm marker ring is level with the lip of the 3rd member housing, at that point you are 4mm deep into the housing. Check again that your seal is evenly pushed into the housing and not crooked.

Begin to re-assemble the rear end again. Slide the pinion flange back on to the pinion and give it a few light taps to ensure that it is in all the way. Install the washer and the pinion nut.

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!

Contrary to what any mechanic friend has told you, the pinion nut DOES NOT have a torque spec that you tighten it down to with a click-type torque wrench. The pinion nut is tightened down and pinion bearings squeezed together until when spun they measure 13in/lbs of resistance (new bearings w/ axles out). This is where your reference mark you made on the pinion and pinion nut comes into play. When installing the pinion nut, tighten the nut down until your reference marks line back up to the exact spot they were before. Over-tightening past the mark or too loose before the mark and you run the risk of damaging the pinion bearings and with time damaging the ring and pinion. So tighten the nut until the marks line up, no more no less. Please feel free to re-read that because it is the most important step of this DIY article.

Pinion nut tight, re-install the driveshaft. Open beer.

<br /><br />
Modified by HASportAE86 at 11:34 AM 1/5/2011

Modified by HASportAE86 at 11:37 AM 1/5/2011



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allencr


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4088 posts [93%]
Tallahassee FL

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


I'd drill out the stake on the pinion nut, or try to open it up with a narrow/cape chisel or even a straight tip screwdriver.
Please show a pic of the nut's stake & the pinion's keyway. Didn't the threads need to be cleaned up?
Please show a pic of the flange, the part where the seal rides on it that may be rough & worn.
If you don't use an impact, how do you hold the flange?

Did it start to leak after using a power washer on/near it?
Thanks.




HASportAE86
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4096 posts [84%]
Loma Linda CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (allencr) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by allencr »
I'd drill out the stake on the pinion nut, or try to open it up with a narrow/cape chisel or even a straight tip screwdriver.
Please show a pic of the nut's stake & the pinion's keyway. Didn't the threads need to be cleaned up?
Please show a pic of the flange, the part where the seal rides on it that may be rough & worn.
If you don't use an impact, how do you hold the flange?

Did it start to leak after using a power washer on/near it?
Thanks.

-The stake: This is why I recommended using an impact, but if you don't have one a chisel and hammer will un-stake it. The pinion nut is not on there very tight, I'm sure applying the E-brake would suffice to break it loose once unstaked. I wouldn't take a drill to the pinion nut in the off chance you end up damaging the pinion threads.

-The threads: Did not need to be cleaned up. I'm not too sure where you're going with this, please explain. They weren't cross-threaded and the pinion threads are never really exposed to the elements.

Please elaborate on some of these questions....



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allencr


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4088 posts [93%]
Tallahassee FL

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


In my experience, removing a staked nut chews up those threads even though they might look good, because by the time the nut is completely removed it has somewhat 'straightened' them out. That nut should be very tight, to factory spec and then some, so any thread roughness messes up what the torque on it really is.

Oops, sorry, you're absolutely right - this thing isn't shimmed but is reusing a pre-crushed crush sleeve.

Modified by allencr at 7:33 PM 6/25/2009




1986Corolla
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511 posts [100%]
Gardena Ca

  » Reply  Edit


Even if the threads on the staked portion on the nut to the last thread at the end of the pinion were messed up, those threads don't even hold the torque load of the nut when pinion nut is installed.



FS: 1987 AE86 GT-S - So-Cal - Daily Driver - Power Everything - Clean Title
HASportAE86
IE Gutter Trash



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4096 posts [84%]
Loma Linda CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (allencr) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by allencr »
In my experience, removing a staked nut chews up those threads even though they might look good, because by the time the nut is completely removed it has somewhat 'straightened' them out. That nut should be very tight, to factory spec and then some, so any thread roughness messes up what the torque on it really is.

*palm to face*

.....to keep this topic moving, yes....unstake the nut. I don't want 3 pages of debate on whether or not to unstake a soft metal nut.

However, the nut should only be tightened to the point where you marked it though. This is pinion preload and you can OVERTIGHTEN it. There is no torque spec for that nut, you tighten it until there is 4.3-6.9 INCH POUNDS of resistance when measured. Overtightening the nut will further crush the one-time use only crush sleeve, driving the pinion bearings further into their races, and destroying the front pinion bearing.



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Dwoods
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132 posts [98%]
Mchenry Il

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


Thanks for taking the time to share - I'm ordering the seal today & plan to replace this comming weekend.

85 coupe.


DW

JDreamer
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797 posts [100%]
stuck in New England

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (Dwoods) » Reply  Edit


UP!
this info should be saved,like a "sticky".

-Jon



Are you from the East coast?
own a Toyota?
http://ectoyotas.com
Sil20v




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645 posts [96%]
Quartz Hill CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (JDreamer) » Reply  Edit


awesome job! thanks for the info and clear directions lol.
jondee86
Reggae Rules...



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4374 posts [96%]
Wellington, NZ

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


Slightly off topic, but is that an OEM driveshaft ?? I see a zerk in one of the caps, so
have you done some mods, or is it a custom shaft ??

Cheers... jondee86

PS: You are doing a great job with these writeups... bigs ups for making the effort



jondee86 has been a member for 735,126 days.

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

HASportAE86
IE Gutter Trash



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4096 posts [84%]
Loma Linda CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (jondee86) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by jondee86 »
Slightly off topic, but is that an OEM driveshaft ?? I see a zerk in one of the caps, so
have you done some mods, or is it a custom shaft ??

Cheers... jondee86

PS: You are doing a great job with these writeups... bigs ups for making the effort

It was an aftermarket, replacement 2-piece driveshaft. Not sure where I got it, I picked it up like 4yrs ago now The car I did this on I no longer own but go to the track with it from time to time

Good tech write-ups keep the community alive and 86's on the road instead of in the junkyard



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Slang


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605 posts [100%]
Los Angeles CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


How hard do you have to tap the seal puller to remove the seal? Do you have to hammer pretty hard or does the seal come out fairly easily? And also when you tap the new seal in?
HASportAE86
IE Gutter Trash



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Loma Linda CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (Slang) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by Slang »
How hard do you have to tap the seal puller to remove the seal? Do you have to hammer pretty hard or does the seal come out fairly easily? And also when you tap the new seal in?

That seal is usually in there pretty good, so don't be shy when it comes to tapping it out. Give it some medium strength taps and watch for it to slowly start coming out.

When putting the seal back in, give it light taps and take your time. Rushing the job can lead to the seal going in crooked and you getting screwed and then gotta go run out and order another seal. The metal portion of the seal DOES NOT sit flush with the housing, the seal actually sits 4mm deep into the 3rd member.

A good trick that I use is to take whatever piece of small length, large diameter tube you will being using to tap the seal in......make a ring with a marker or piece of tape 4mm from the bottom of the tube. This will serve as a stoping point when you are tapping the seal in. Simply keep tapping while looking at the reference mark you made on your tube. When the reference line is flush with the housing all the way around, you'll know that you are 4mm deep and even.



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Slang


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605 posts [100%]
Los Angeles CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


Thanks for the great write up!
gtSr5




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Spartanburg SC

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (Slang) » Reply  Edit


i really dont wanna get off topic here.. but its along the same lines... as my car is now.. i have the wier 4.7 gear.. i had to go to 3 different shops to get it right.. or close to right as in noise and feel.. but to this day it still has a whine.. even though its all new parts... this weekends maintenence showed me a leaking pinion seal so im gonna need to change it anyway..

but here is my question for u... how much free play should u have there.. seriously i can turn the driveshaft back and forth a quarter turn before getting any real resistance.. sound about right or horribly wrong?



quote garage 86"upgrade yourself 1st .... DONT upgrade your car sooo much ,that YOU YOURSELF cant even catch up to your own upgrades ..."
Slang


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605 posts [100%]
Los Angeles CA

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (gtSr5) » Reply  Edit


I just got the seal replaced. The old seal was stuck so bad it didn't come out at the first try but the WD40 saved the day again. It took me about 2.5 hours including draining and refilling the oil, cleaning the undercarriage, etc. If you are good, this should be like 1 hour job or less, though the local shops quoted like $180 to $300 labor.

Cost:
New Seal $8 (plus $7 shipping, online order)
Seal Puller $18 (Harbor Freight)
Plumbing pipe coupling $4 (2" diameter, Home Depot)
6 pack Heineken for my buddy to use his garage. $8

I'm glad I got this done. No more stinky oil leak! Thanks again for the great write up.

What happened to the original post?

jballa1036
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117 posts [100%]
Roswell Ga

  » Reply  Edit


Anyone happen to have the original DIY??
elis4ag


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 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


Great tech write up but per manual instructions the nut should be torqued to 80ft-lbs.
With old bearing preload should be 5-8kg-cm(4.3-6.9in-lbs.) (page RA21-22) on toyota manual. It also states that if preload greater after the 80ft-lbs, bearing spaces should be replaced but if less then retighten the nut 9ft-lbs at a time untill the specified preload is reached not to exceed 174ft-lbs.
Now from my experience replacing the seal, after torquing to 80ft-lbs the nut lined up perfect with the old staked spot/mark.
ps. if by any chance your ebrake wont hold the wheels to torque the nut then jack the front up as much as your jack allows and leave the rear tires on the ground that way they dont move for sure.
jondee86
Reggae Rules...



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4374 posts [96%]
Wellington, NZ

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (elis4ag) » Reply  Edit


The purpose of this writeup was (as is clearly stated from the outset) to provide a
quick and easy method of replacing the pinion seal on-car. That is, without having
to dismantle the rear axle assembly, and without needing a bunch of special tools
and measuring instuments.

The pinion has already been setup, so there is no need to generate the kind of
torque that is necessary to crush the crush tube. The tube is already the right
length. If the nut goes back on in exactly the same position it was before,
then the bearing preload will be correct, or at least the same as it was before.

Whatever torque you need to apply to the nut to get back to its previous position, is
the amount of torque you need. 40, 60, 80 ft-lbs, it is not important. The FSM shows
the technically correct way of doing things. But in the real world of fixing cars, there
are a lot of shortcuts that can save you time and money. This is one of them

Cheers... jondee86



jondee86 has been a member for 735,126 days.

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

toyota_fanatic
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511 posts [100%]
San Diego CA

  » Reply  Edit


is there a difference on the zenki and kouki pinion seal?
assassin10000
Teq



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4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA

 Re: (toyota_fanatic) » Reply  Edit


No.

Andrew

toyota_fanatic
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511 posts [100%]
San Diego CA

 Re: (assassin10000) » Reply  Edit


thanks bro, I appreciate it.
Eric'sFreeAE86
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2589 posts [100%]
Chattanooga TN

 Re: (toyota_fanatic) » Reply  Edit


I would expect my SR5 has a different seal part number, but would the installation still be the same?
geist
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57 posts [100%]
Sacramento CA

  » Reply  Edit


Just did this today, thanks for the write up!
re-elise-me87
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van nuys ca

 Re: DIY Write-Up: Replace your leaking pinion seal ON CAR (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


great write up ive been watching this site for awhile before and after i got my
87 corolla coupe u guys run a great site cant wait to return the favor
thanks HASportAE86
i have oil everywhere under my car for this reason and thought it was too much
to do myself with this write up im not gonna go in blind



gota AE then u gotta Payee
tomsd03
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MORENO VALLEY California

  » Reply  Edit


i have a 84 sr5 and theyre asking for two different sizes. anyway of telling without buying them both and returning one? i believe the sizes are 6.7 and 7.3.

HASportAE86
IE Gutter Trash



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4096 posts [84%]
Loma Linda CA

 Re: (tomsd03) » Reply  Edit


Quote, originally posted by tomsd03 »
i have a 84 sr5 and theyre asking for two different sizes. anyway of telling without buying them both and returning one? i believe the sizes are 6.7 and 7.3.

GTS rear ends are 6.7" ring gears
SR5's are 6.3"

The part you need is going to be NOT THE ONE I provided for the pinion seal, that one is for a GTS. Everything procedure wise is still the same.



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tomsd03
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82 posts [100%]
MORENO VALLEY California

 Re: (HASportAE86) » Reply  Edit


Ahh, sank yu HASport!!

Luneric
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33 posts [100%]
Gold Beach Oregon

 Re: (tomsd03) » Reply  Edit


Just changed ut my pinion seal with this technique step by step and it has worked so well. My pumpkin is bone dry without a drop in sight! I will save this thread for future jobs. Amazing article, 5 stars!!!



Vely Gewd Dlift
-=Charley
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140 posts [100%]
Anaheim ca

 Re: (Luneric) » Reply  Edit


Thx for the writeup! I didn't have a pipe that size, but you can just use the old seal, just cut the rubber off on the input side and tap tap taparoo


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