Does the N76 model is the one I need for my wiring ? In the reference section I can see the AE101 ECU has 3 connectors (16, 22 and 26pins) so I think the N76 is the good one, right ? http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/models.html

The microsquirt module doesn't have pots for adjusting the main VR signal, do you think it will be easy to get a good strong signal from the stock gze CAS ? Or may I have signal noises ?

I will connect the stock GZE coils to the MS, what kind of dwell value can I put for start ?

Thanks

Modified by nyabinghi at 7:46 AM 1/20/2011

You'll want to look at your harness connectors vs. the N76 image. Be sure all the big / small metal terminals are in the same places. I think the issue with the 20V connector is one of the smaller pin count connectors (either the 16 or 22 pin) uses all fat pins, where the N76 connector has all small pins.

You should be OK for the GZE CAS. I'm running one right now on my N/A 16V and firing a wasted spark coil pack directly. If you do have noise (which I don't think you will), there is also an LM1815 VR conditioner on the main board. Run whichever signal (24 tooth or 1 tooth) is having the issues (viewed in composite logger) through the LM1815 circuit.

I don't have any personal experience with the GZE coils. I think we may have some here at the shop that I can test. If we do, I will put the oscilloscope on them and find the proper dwell for you.

-Russ

Where can I find some doc on how the stock ECU manage the igniter (voltage etc...) on this engine ?

Thanks

http://www.diyautotune.com/cat....html

*** Look and be sure it's the right connector. Be sure all the large and small pins are in the same places too.

Thank you very much for this info.
What about the ISCV ? Do you know what kind of Idle controler we have on the AE101 GZE ? PWM valve ? Stepper motor ? Thanks

I have my DIYPNP at home but not assembled yet...

The two recent DIYPNP main board revisions (1.5 and 1.5B) have the circuitry included to build the 3-wire PWM valve driver.

http://www.diyautotune.com/diy...ntrol

Will check the ISCV plug on the car, but according to these wiring diagrams, there are no electric wire for the ISCV...

Hope I will be able to begin the assembly next week.

Thanks

On running the 3wire idle valve. Do you need a seperate board to convert the MS2 V3.57 Fidle output to RSO and RSC that the IACV needs?

Thanks

george

Correct, IGT is ignition output 1 and IGD is ignition output 2. The MS won't use the IGF ignition confirmation signal.

To run a 3-wire from a 3.57 main board ECU you can either build this circuit

or you can ground the RSC wire of the valve through a high wattage resistor, something like a 50 watt 50 Ohm. This will give a constant closed pull on the valve and it would then operate like a 2-wire PWM valve.

george

if you're free one day to pop up here for lunch or even just swing by the shop we can go chat about the best way to take care of your idle.

I listed all the connections to be made in the following spreadsheet. I'm not sure about where to connect FC on the MS and if I must use G1 or G2 for the second VR input (red row in the table). If someone can help me... thanks

https://docs.google.com/spread...=html

At the moment FC is not connected at all so I think this is why the fuel pump doesn't turn on. According to the 4AGZE wiring diagram, it seems that if I connect FC to the fuel pump pin of the MS (and leave FPR wire disconnected) it should work. What do you think ?
Or May be I must connect FC to Power Ground (GND) and leave FPR connected to the fuel pump pin of the MS ?

On the following diagram (at the bottom), what is the use of the Fuel Pump Resitor ? Consider there is 12V at pin #3 of the fuel pump relay, it seems that the behavior is the following :
- If FPR is connected to ground the fuel pump is in serie with the resistor and then flow less
- If FPR is disconnected no resitor in serie with the fuel pump and the it flow much.
Right ?

Thanks

I tested that, thank you, it "works" but not the right way : the fuel pump turns ON as soon as the ignition is ON so I think this is not a good thing for the battery.

Will try to connect MS fuel pump to FC and let the Toyota FPR disconnected...

I wired TPS, IAT and CLT as in the spreadsheet, and this works perfect. Tomorrow I will try igniter, CAS and injectors.

Modified by nyabinghi at 7:57 AM 4/10/2012

All other sensors are connected but not tested yet.

https://docs.google.com/spread...gid=0