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kouki1986
Member
Offline
1232 posts [100%]
honolulu hawaii
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alright... thanks
http://www.carbonfibercollection.comcarbonfibercollection@yahoo.com
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kouki1986
Member
Offline
1232 posts [100%]
honolulu hawaii
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@ assassin10000 this question is irrelevant from this thread but I couldn't find your other one. Anyway it's about swapping a w-series tranny and soon i'll be getting one of those custom one piece drive shaft. Regarding measurement, do I have to change the size? Or i can copy the exact measurement of the stock ones?
Thanks
http://www.carbonfibercollection.comcarbonfibercollection@yahoo.com
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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You need to be a little more clear on what 'size' is...You would have to have a different (larger) yoke that slides into the W58 vs. the one for the T50. AND you would need to determine the correct length to reach from the carrier bearing to the transmission. The only way to tell is to take some measurements and/or find someone that has installed one with the same setup as you. Andrew
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kouki1986
Member
Offline
1232 posts [100%]
honolulu hawaii
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The local shop knows about the yoke and it has to be larger to accomodate the w-series tranny. Actually one of the mechanics told me that they have a dime a dozen of those. What matters is now the lenght from end to end and finding an exact set up like mine would be nearly impossible here. I thought I could have the same measurement from the gts drive shaft? No? 
http://www.carbonfibercollection.comcarbonfibercollection@yahoo.com
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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The rear half of your driveshaft stays the same (can be unbolted)The front half may be different. I know mine was, but since I used an adapter plate vs. adapter bellhousing the length will be different (and I don't think I wrote it down). Andrew
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kouki1986
Member
Offline
1232 posts [100%]
honolulu hawaii
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Alright thanks Andrew, I'm just gonna figure something out!
http://www.carbonfibercollection.comcarbonfibercollection@yahoo.com
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Jezza
Offline
52 posts [100%]
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Hi Guys,I'm trying to track down a T50 rebuild kit to be shipped to the UK, does anyone around here have stock of them? Thanks,
Jezza
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kouki1986
Member
Offline
1232 posts [100%]
honolulu hawaii
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If you need OEM new gasket seals let me know, I have stash?
http://www.carbonfibercollection.comcarbonfibercollection@yahoo.com
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Jezza
Offline
52 posts [100%]
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I'll be needing those, as well as the bearings and syncros :-)
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kouki1986
Member
Offline
1232 posts [100%]
honolulu hawaii
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Ive been through that same situation before, I search and call every place I know who would carry the parts but no one has it. Only Toyota got the parts and for just the basic rebuild it wil easily cost you $1.2k. Good luck! Anyway, if you need my gasket and seals let me know?
http://www.carbonfibercollection.comcarbonfibercollection@yahoo.com
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Jezza
Offline
52 posts [100%]
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I want to ask HASportAE86 if he might know where I can get one, but I seem to have trouble trying to send him a PM. I can see an option for Instant Messaging when someone is online, but nothing in ways of leaving a message for someone 
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Jezza
Offline
52 posts [100%]
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Anyone?
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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Click the IM button, be sure to allow pop-ups. The system works, but if you have a pop-up blocker it won't open the IM window.Andrew
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johnh
Member
Offline
442 posts [100%]
Moreno Valley CA
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I searched the part number for the input-shaft bearing on a Toyota oem parts website. AND IT WAS LIKE $137.00!?!?!?!? Does that sound right?
Thanks and Awesome Wright up!
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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Probably, price definately went up if that's the case.
Andrew
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nlt4ac
Offline
526 posts [99%]
Kingsland GA
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I looked this up on http://www.toyotapartscheap.com 90365-30020 BEARING, x 1 - Front - Input shaft bearing $131.71
90361-06047 ROLLER x 12 - Input/Output shaft roller/bearing $17.88
90363-25017 BEARING, x 1 - Rear - output shaft bearing $55.81
90369-30027 BEARING x 1 - Center - output shaft bearing $124.98
33365-14011 KEY, SYNC x 3 - 1/2 synchro hub keys $9.72
33368-20012 RING, SYN x 2 - 1/2 synchro's $62.38
33367-14010 RING, SYN x 2 - 3/4 synchro's $49.64
90365-30015 BEARING, x 1 - count shaft center bearing $94.18
90365-20004 BEARING, x 1 - front countershaft bearing $134.38
90365-20001 BEARING, x 1 - rear countershaft bearing $101.69
33394-14010 KEY, 3&4 x 3 3/4 synchro hub keys $7.53
33366-14010 KEY, 5&R x 3 5/Rev synchro hub keys $7.80
33367-14010 RING, SYN x 1 - 5th gear sychro
33363-14012 SLEEVE, T x 1 - 1-2 shift collar/synchro hub $83.95 33364-14010 SLEEVE, T x 1 - 3-4 shift collar/synchro hub $102.52
90364-37002 BEARING, x 2 - 1st & 2nd gear brgs $54.60
90364-37004 BEARING, x 2 - reverse gear brgs $127.40
90364-27003 BEARING, x 1 - 5th gear brg $51.62 Total: $1,217.79 + the parts i couldn't/didn't look up (gasket kit, 5th syncro..ect)
I before E except after C
....weird rule I think.Will pay $$$ for a hard copy of Project Car #15 in good condition text 912-Two27 Two365
-Sean
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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OUCH!For that price I'd do a W58 swap.
Andrew
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kouki1986
Member
Offline
1232 posts [100%]
honolulu hawaii
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i did and im very happy with the result
http://www.carbonfibercollection.comcarbonfibercollection@yahoo.com
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Deuce Cam
Member
Offline
1029 posts [100%]
Chandler AZ
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Price for the rebuild parts is expensive. Your post inspired to me to look up the cost of a new t-50 from Toyota, it's $1,3xx.xx. Probably not available anymore though.Junkyard t-50 or w series is the way to go.
Parts for sale: http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=99639
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TwiggyAE86
Member
Offline
614 posts [98%]
Colton CA
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Rock Auto has three of the bearings you need. The front and rear counter shaft bearings and the rear output shaft bearing. They are cheaper than the Toyota price by far
1987 Toyota Cressida -- Daily Driver"The noise is spine tingling...like God treading on a Lego brick" ---Jeremy Clarkson
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choyr
Member
Offline
12 posts [100%]
Batangas Batangas
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guys i have a question. my input shaft is "shaky" making the tranny noisy if the clutch is not pressed.. what part of the transmission should I replace? I already disassembled the transmission. Thans
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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Depends on how bad it is. There are 12 roller bearings between the input & output shafts and a large bearing pressed onto the input shaft. These would most likely be your problem.Unless you don't have a pilot/spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. Common problem when using a formerly FWD/Transverse mounted engine in a swap. Andrew
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choyr
Member
Offline
12 posts [100%]
Batangas Batangas
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Thanks Andrew,Yes the engine mounted is a 20V with the 3AU tranny. I checked the output shaft and its still in good condition. I will check this large bearing tomorrow, is it the one you have to use a bearing puller? and also a roller bearing?
Thanks!
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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This is the bearing I'm talking about, it is MISSING from all 20v crankshafts... and does NOT come in the clutch kits for a 20v flywheel either. You need to add one for your RWD setup or you will destroy your transmission. If it is missing, this could be why you have excess noise/play in the input shaft.
You might be able to get away with using a bearing puller. But I think I used a press. Here's pics of the ones I'm talking about, the input bearing and input shaft to output shaft roller bearings: 
Andrew
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choyr
Member
Offline
12 posts [100%]
Batangas Batangas
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Thanks Andrew,I found those 12 rollers and the bearing you are talking about. I'll try to find a replacement bearing to check for the differences. Is it also possible that those 12 rollers become small over time that can lead to shaky input shaft? or the output shaft touching by the rollers are getting small? :D fyi the engine/tranny I use in a race car. First, I replaced the noisy tranny with a replacement, and now I'm repairing it as my spare tranny. If my current tranny becomes noisy again due to the same problem, I'll check the spigot bearing you are talking about at the crankshaft. from the pic, it's rubber sealed right?
Modified by choyr at 3:13 PM 4/7/2012
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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Typically not a problem wearing on the roller portions, it isn't a heavily loaded bearing. Unlike the large front bearing, and the pilot bearing keeps it aligned.Rubber or metal. Depending on the MFG.
Andrew
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87Coupe_de_Ville
"Creeper"
Offline
1555 posts [100%]
Socal 909/951 CA
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whats this?....discuss
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=105775
Parts For Sale!
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=106039
16v Timing Cover and 20v exhaust gasket
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=112023
Project mu lugs
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=113195
AE86 Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=113399
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choyr
Member
Offline
12 posts [100%]
Batangas Batangas
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Andrew,How did you remove the 3-4 collar? I'm having a hard time pulling it off from the output shaft. I do not know if I have to lightly hammer it off or just use a puller or some trick to it. thanks!
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assassin10000
Teq
Offline
4959 posts [100%]
Northern CA
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The 3-4 collar/sleeve that the shift fork slides into pops right off as it's only held with 3 alignment keys/tabs and 2 springs inside the hub. I'm guessing you mean the 'hub' is what you are actually having a problem removing. Pull the C-clip first, then to pull the 3-4 hub you will probably need a 2 or 3 jaw puller or use a hydraulic press to take it off. It only comes out towards the 'front'.
Andrew
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Grant
Member
Offline
3656 posts [86%]
San Jose ca
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Can anyone confirm if this is the right bearing to use for the front input shaft bearing? This was the one piece I couldn't find a couple of years ago when I rebuilt my trans. http://www.noc.ua/en/online-ca...y=661
Stand Alone ECU tuning. Message me for details.Looking to buy a corolla manual rack and a TRD 3 gear transmission.
*also wtb 4 point roll cage/bar for ae86 coupe
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